Vanity sizing
Encyclopedia
Vanity sizing, also known as size inflation is used to refer to the phenomenon of ready-to-wear
clothing of the same nominal size
becoming larger over time. Vanity sizing tends to occur in places where clothing sizes are not standardized, such as the United States
although within the United States it occurs far more frequently in women's apparel than in men's, partly due the widespread and far earlier adoption of standardized measurement for men's apparel for military uniforms (where, for example, a pair of trousers with a 32" waist and a 32" inseam must be labeled as such regardless of who made it).
It is generally acknowledged that clothing of the same nominal size has become larger over the years. In 2003, a study that measured over 1,000 pairs of women's pants found that more expensive brands tended to be smaller than cheaper ones of the same nominal size. The increasing dimensions of garments of the same nominal size has caused some designers to introduce size 0, 00, or subzero sizes.
Many commentators have suggested that "vanity" sizing, as its name suggests, is designed to satisfy buyers' wishes to appear thin and feel better about themselves.
On the contrary, industry patternmaker Kathleen Fasanella argues vanity sizing is a myth, and that the sizing entropy currently seen is mostly a variety problem.
Different manufacturers have modified sizes so that a woman who once wore a size 12 dress can now wear a 10 or an 8. Depending on the brand, a size 8 dress can fit a woman with a bra band size ranging from 34 to 38 in (86.4 to 96.5 cm), a waist measuring from 28 to 31 in (71.1 to 78.7 cm), and hips measuring 36.5 to 41 in (92.7 to 104.1 cm). Even a single brand can offer the same size in different measurements. Alix and Kelley, a manufacturer based in Los Angeles, offers different size 8 measurements, ranging from 35 to 38 in (88.9 to 96.5 cm) in the bust. Size irregularities have existed for many years. In Sears’s 1937 catalog, a woman with a 32 inches (81.3 cm)-bust would have worn a size 14 dress. In 1967, the same woman would have worn an 8. In 2011, she would wear a zero.
However, other reasons for this change have been offered as well. Designer Nicole Miller
's spokeswoman has suggested that 00 or subzero sizes were introduced in part because of the rise of Asian markets, where women are generally smaller. It has also been suggested that vanity sizing allows clothing companies to cater their sizing to their demographic, since women of different sizes may be attracted to different brands. Finally, it has been suggested that vanity sizing merely reflects the increasing prevalence of obesity.
Ready-to-wear
Ready-to-wear or prêt-à-porter is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished condition, in standardized sizes, as distinct from made to measure or bespoke clothing tailored to a particular person's frame. Off-the-peg is sometimes used for items which are not clothing.Ready-to-wear has...
clothing of the same nominal size
Nominal size
In manufacturing, a nominal size or trade size is a size "in name only" used for identification. The nominal size may not match any dimension of the product, but within the domain of that product the nominal size may correspond to a large number of highly standardized dimensions and tolerances.For...
becoming larger over time. Vanity sizing tends to occur in places where clothing sizes are not standardized, such as the United States
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
although within the United States it occurs far more frequently in women's apparel than in men's, partly due the widespread and far earlier adoption of standardized measurement for men's apparel for military uniforms (where, for example, a pair of trousers with a 32" waist and a 32" inseam must be labeled as such regardless of who made it).
It is generally acknowledged that clothing of the same nominal size has become larger over the years. In 2003, a study that measured over 1,000 pairs of women's pants found that more expensive brands tended to be smaller than cheaper ones of the same nominal size. The increasing dimensions of garments of the same nominal size has caused some designers to introduce size 0, 00, or subzero sizes.
Many commentators have suggested that "vanity" sizing, as its name suggests, is designed to satisfy buyers' wishes to appear thin and feel better about themselves.
On the contrary, industry patternmaker Kathleen Fasanella argues vanity sizing is a myth, and that the sizing entropy currently seen is mostly a variety problem.
Different manufacturers have modified sizes so that a woman who once wore a size 12 dress can now wear a 10 or an 8. Depending on the brand, a size 8 dress can fit a woman with a bra band size ranging from 34 to 38 in (86.4 to 96.5 cm), a waist measuring from 28 to 31 in (71.1 to 78.7 cm), and hips measuring 36.5 to 41 in (92.7 to 104.1 cm). Even a single brand can offer the same size in different measurements. Alix and Kelley, a manufacturer based in Los Angeles, offers different size 8 measurements, ranging from 35 to 38 in (88.9 to 96.5 cm) in the bust. Size irregularities have existed for many years. In Sears’s 1937 catalog, a woman with a 32 inches (81.3 cm)-bust would have worn a size 14 dress. In 1967, the same woman would have worn an 8. In 2011, she would wear a zero.
However, other reasons for this change have been offered as well. Designer Nicole Miller
Nicole Miller
Nicole Miller is an American fashion designer, businesswoman, mother and wife who was born in Texas and raised in Lenox, Massachusetts.Miller attended the Rhode Island School of Design where she earned a BFA in Apparel Design...
's spokeswoman has suggested that 00 or subzero sizes were introduced in part because of the rise of Asian markets, where women are generally smaller. It has also been suggested that vanity sizing allows clothing companies to cater their sizing to their demographic, since women of different sizes may be attracted to different brands. Finally, it has been suggested that vanity sizing merely reflects the increasing prevalence of obesity.
See also
- Body imageBody imageBody image refers to a person's perception of the aesthetics and sexual attractiveness of their own body. The phrase body image was first coined by the Austrian neurologist and psychoanalyst Paul Schilder in his masterpiece The Image and Appearance of the Human Body...
- Dress size
- EN 13402EN 13402EN 13402 is a European standard for labelling clothes sizes. It is based on body dimensions, measured in centimetres. It replaces many older national dress-size systems in popular use before the year 2007. Acceptance of this form of standardization varies from country to country...
, European clothing standard - US standard clothing sizeUS standard clothing sizeUS standard clothing sizes were developed from statistical data in the 1940s-1950s. They were similar in concept to the EN 13402 European clothing size standard....
- Size zeroSize ZeroSize 0 is a women's clothing size in the US catalog sizes system. Size 0 and 00 were invented due to the changing of clothing sizes over time , which has caused the adoption of lower numbers...