Trettachspitze
Encyclopedia
The Trettachspitze is a 2,595 metre high mountain
in the Allgäu Alps
in Germany. Due to its striking appearance (a very steep, narrow horn of rock when seen from the west and east) it is one of the best-known mountains in the Allgäu Alps.
(2,645 m) and the Hochfrottspitze
(2,649 m) it forms the often admired triumvirate of mountains rising above Einödsbach. It is the only high rocky summit in the Allgäu Alps that lies entirely on German soil. It is situated north of the Mädelegabel and usually ascended from the Waltenberger Haus.
At the foot of the Trettachspitze, at the lower end of the Trettachrinne, is the source of the Trettach
river.
valley. The youngest was just 13 years old.
The Trettachspitze may only be attempted by experienced climbers. The usual ascents are the UIAA grade II
approach on the northwestern arête, or the frequently used crossing of the northeast and northwestern arêtes using safety equipment which is UIAA grade III in places.
There are other climbing routes on every rock face. However the only ones that are regularly used are the Schwarzer Riß (grade V+), Spiel der Geister (VII) and The show must go on (VI) on the western face. The other routes are rarely attempted as they have long and dangerous approaches over often crumbling rocks. Next to the route The show must go on, Robert Jasper and Stefan Meineke opened up other climbing routes on the western face in summer 1991.
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...
in the Allgäu Alps
Allgäu Alps
The Allgäu Alps are a mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps, located in Bavaria in Germany and Tyrol and Vorarlberg in Austria. The range lies directly east of Lake Constance.-Principal summits:-External links:*...
in Germany. Due to its striking appearance (a very steep, narrow horn of rock when seen from the west and east) it is one of the best-known mountains in the Allgäu Alps.
Location and area
Together with the MädelegabelMädelegabel
The Mädelegabel is a 2,645 metre high mountain, made of dolomite, in the Allgäu Alps near Oberstdorf. It is one of the best-known and most-climbed high peaks in the German Alps, Within the Allgäu Alps it is the fourth-higest summit, with rock faces up to 400 metres high...
(2,645 m) and the Hochfrottspitze
Hochfrottspitze
The Hochfrottspitze is a 2,649 metre high mountain, made of dolomite, in the Allgäu Alps near Oberstdorf in Germany and the highest German mountain in the Allgäu Alps. The border with Austria runs along its ridge....
(2,649 m) it forms the often admired triumvirate of mountains rising above Einödsbach. It is the only high rocky summit in the Allgäu Alps that lies entirely on German soil. It is situated north of the Mädelegabel and usually ascended from the Waltenberger Haus.
At the foot of the Trettachspitze, at the lower end of the Trettachrinne, is the source of the Trettach
Trettach
Trettach is a river of Bavaria, Germany.-See also:*List of rivers of Bavaria...
river.
Ascent and climbing history
The Trettachspitze was first climbed in 1855 by the brothers Urban, Alois and Mathias Jochum from the Birgsau in the StillachStillach
Stillach is a river of Bavaria, Germany.-See also:*List of rivers of Bavaria...
valley. The youngest was just 13 years old.
The Trettachspitze may only be attempted by experienced climbers. The usual ascents are the UIAA grade II
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
approach on the northwestern arête, or the frequently used crossing of the northeast and northwestern arêtes using safety equipment which is UIAA grade III in places.
There are other climbing routes on every rock face. However the only ones that are regularly used are the Schwarzer Riß (grade V+), Spiel der Geister (VII) and The show must go on (VI) on the western face. The other routes are rarely attempted as they have long and dangerous approaches over often crumbling rocks. Next to the route The show must go on, Robert Jasper and Stefan Meineke opened up other climbing routes on the western face in summer 1991.
Sources
- Ernst Enzenperger: Die Gruppe der Mädelegabel, München, Jos. Köselsche Buchhandlung, 1909
- Thaddäus Steiner: Die Flurnamen der Gemeinde Oberstdorf im Allgäu, München, Selbstverlag des Verbandes für Flurnamenforschung in Bayern, 1972
- Thaddäus Steiner: Hieß die Trettachspitze einst Giis(t)kopf in Unser Oberstdorf, Blätter zur Oberstdorfer Heimatgeschichte. Heft 9/1986, S. 68.
- Alpenvereinskarte 1:25.000, Blatt 2/1, Allgäuer- Lechtaler Alpen, West