Tim Macartney-Snape
Encyclopedia
Tim Macartney-Snape is a mountaineer
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...

 and author. On 3 October 1984 Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer were the first Australians to reach the summit of Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...

. They reached the summit, climbing without supplementary oxygen, via a new route on the North Face (North Face to Norton Couloir). In 1990, Macartney-Snape became the first person to walk and climb from sea level to the top of Mount Everest. Macartney-Snape is also the founder of the Sea to Summit range of outdoor and adventure gear and accessories, and a guide for adventure travel company World Expeditions.

Early years

He was born in Tanganyika
Tanganyika
Tanganyika , later formally the Republic of Tanganyika, was a sovereign state in East Africa from 1961 to 1964. It was situated between the Indian Ocean and the African Great Lakes of Lake Victoria, Lake Malawi and Lake Tanganyika...

 (now Tanzania
Tanzania
The United Republic of Tanzania is a country in East Africa bordered by Kenya and Uganda to the north, Rwanda, Burundi, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the west, and Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique to the south. The country's eastern borders lie on the Indian Ocean.Tanzania is a state...

) where he lived on a farm with his Australian father and Irish mother. In 1967, the family moved to Australia, to a farm in north eastern Victoria. He attended Geelong Grammar School
Geelong Grammar School
Geelong Grammar School is an independent, Anglican, co-educational, boarding and day school. The school's main campus is located at Corio, on the northern outskirts of Geelong, Victoria, Australia, overlooking Corio Bay and Limeburners Bay....

 and spent a year at the school's outward bound campus Timbertop. Tim studied at the Australian National University
Australian National University
The Australian National University is a teaching and research university located in the Australian capital, Canberra.As of 2009, the ANU employs 3,945 administrative staff who teach approximately 10,000 undergraduates, and 7,500 postgraduate students...

 (ANU) in Canberra where he joined the ANU Mountaineering Club (ANUMC) and obtained a BSc
Bachelor of Science
A Bachelor of Science is an undergraduate academic degree awarded for completed courses that generally last three to five years .-Australia:In Australia, the BSc is a 3 year degree, offered from 1st year on...

 in between bushwalking, rock climbing
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...

 and backcountry skiing
Backcountry skiing
Backcountry skiing is skiing in a sparsely inhabited rural region over ungroomed and unmarked slopes or pistes, including skiing in unmarked or unpatrolled areas either within the ski resort's boundaries or in the backcountry, frequently amongst trees , usually in pursuit of fresh fallen powder...

 and kayaking
Kayaking
Kayaking is the use of a kayak for moving across water. Kayaking and canoeing are also known as paddling. Kayaking is distinguished from canoeing by the sitting position of the paddler and the number of blades on the paddle...

 trips.

Australia and New Zealand

Having rock climbed all over Australia, his first mountaineering
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...

 experience was two seasons in New Zealand
New Zealand
New Zealand is an island country in the south-western Pacific Ocean comprising two main landmasses and numerous smaller islands. The country is situated some east of Australia across the Tasman Sea, and roughly south of the Pacific island nations of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga...

's Southern Alps
Southern Alps
The Southern Alps is a mountain range extending along much of the length of New Zealand's South Island, reaching its greatest elevations near the island's western side...

.

Dunagiri

In 1978, Macartney-Snape travelled to India
India
India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world...

 as part of the ANUMC's expedition to Dunagiri
Dunagiri (mountain)
Dunagiri is one of the high peaks of the Garhwal Himalayas in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand. It lies at the northwest corner of the Sanctuary Wall, a ring of peaks surrounding Nanda Devi and enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary....

 (7,066 m). After prolonged bad weather and several team members fell ill, the leader decided to abandon the expedition. He and Lincoln Hall
Lincoln Hall (climber)
Lincoln Hall is a veteran Australian mountain climber and author. Hall is the author of White Limbo, the story of the first Australian team to climb Mount Everest. While others in the team made it to the top, Hall was forced to turn back close to the summit due to illness...

 volunteered to climb up to retrieve equipment and ropes that had been left in place for a summit attempt. But Macartney-Snape was also thinking of making a dash for the summit if the weather cleared. They were in luck after they spent a clear but very cold night in the open without sleeping bags and Macartney-Snape reached the summit. After reuniting where Hall had rested below the final summit pyramid the pair were fortunate to survive a blizzard on their descent. This was the first major Himalayan summit climbed by an Australian.

Ama Dablam

In 1981 Macartney-Snape climbed Ama Dablam (6812m) via the north ridge with a small lightweight team. Macartney-Snape reportedly cited this climb as the inspiration for later climbing Everest: "partway up the North ridge of Ama Dablam he looked over and could see Mt Everest and wondered what it might be like to experience the highest point of the world via a new route in good style".

Annapurna II

In 1983, Macartney-Snape planned and participated in an expedition to Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....

 II (7,937 m) successfully reaching the summit via the first ascent of the south spur. The descent was delayed by a blizzard and the expedition ran out of food during the last five days. They were reported missing and when the expedition eventually returned they received significant publicity.

Mount Everest

In July 1984 a small Australian team headed to the north side of Mt Everest where they proceeded to prepare to ascend an unclimbed route on the north face climbing without bottled oxygen in a lightweight alpine style without the help of high altitude porters. On 3 October 1984, climbing in cross-country ski boots as substitutes for his high altitude climbing boots that had been lost in an avalanche earlier on, Macartney-Snape became the first Australian to climb Mt Everest, an achievement for which he was awarded the Medal of the Order of Australia (OAM)
Order of Australia
The Order of Australia is an order of chivalry established on 14 February 1975 by Elizabeth II, Queen of Australia, "for the purpose of according recognition to Australian citizens and other persons for achievement or for meritorious service"...

 for services to mountaineering. Mt Everest historian Walt Unsworth described it as “one of the greatest climbs ever done on the mountain” and American climber John Roskelley
John Roskelley
John Roskelley is a noted mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington, and is known for his first ascents and notable ascents of 7000 and 8000 meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan.-Notable ascents:...

 said “the Aussies pulled off the coup of the century”. The expedition was sponsored by Channel 9
Nine Network
The Nine Network , is an Australian television network with headquarters based in Willoughby, a suburb located on the North Shore of Sydney. For 50 years since television's inception in Australia, between 1956 and 2006, it was the most watched television network in Australia...

 who produced a television documentary about the expedition.

Gasherbrum IV- second ascent/ first ascent of northwest ridge

In 1986 fellow Australian Greg Child
Greg Child
Greg Child is an Australian-born rock climber, mountaineer, author and filmmaker.He is a writer for "Outside magazine" and has authored several books: "Thin Air: Encounters in the Himalayas", "Mixed Emotions: Mountaineering Writings of Greg Child", "Postcards from the Ledge", "Over the Edge" and...

 was organising an international team to attempt Gasherbrum
Gasherbrum
Gasherbrum is a remote group of peaks located at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya on the border of the Chinese Shaksgam Valley and the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan. The massif contains three of the world's 8,000 metre peaks...

 IV (7980m). The mountain’s first and only ascent had been in 1957 by an elite team of Italian alpinists and it’s sheer faces and rocky ridges had since thwarted many attempts.The climb up the previously unclimbed north west ridge proved difficult, it was one “that challenged even Macartney-Snape’s legendary strength and endurance at high altitude.” Macartney-Snape took a film movie camera on the climb, as he had done on Everest, and the subsequent film, was given the title Harder than Everest. After a night without sleeping bags or stove at just under 8000m Child, Macartney-Snape and American Tom Hargis had finally made the coveted second ascent of Gasherbrum IV.

Everest: Sea to Summit Expedition

In 1990 Macartney-Snape returned once again to Mt Everest with the idea of climbing the mountain from the sea to the summit. The idea had originally been floated by adventure cameraman Michael Dillon. With sponsorship provided by Australian Geographic
Australian Geographic
The Australian Geographic is a quarterly geographical magazine-style journal created by Dick Smith in 1985. It focuses mainly on stories about Australia, or about Australian people in other countries...

 amongst others, it would take Macartney-Snape three months to achieve this goal.

This was the first time anyone had walked from sea level and reached the top of Mt Everest, as even the first expeditions started from Kathmandu, at 1400m above sea level. While planning the expedition, Macartney-Snape and his then wife, Dr Ann Ward, were living in Meekatharra, Western Australia
Western Australia
Western Australia is a state of Australia, occupying the entire western third of the Australian continent. It is bounded by the Indian Ocean to the north and west, the Great Australian Bight and Indian Ocean to the south, the Northern Territory to the north-east and South Australia to the south-east...

 where she was stationed with the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Macartney-Snape trained for the upcoming expedition with demanding runs in the 40 degree heat of the surrounding bush and short, solo climbs on the large boulders around Meekatharra.

The 500 vertical metres from the Bay of Bengal involved a 1200 km walk from the sea, leaving Ganga Sagar on 5 February 1990, walking through India to the Nepalese border. He was joined by Ward, his sister Pip, film-maker Mike Dillon, Nepali cook Tenzing Sherpa and Charles Norwood who drove a Land Rover with gear for the trek.

Macartney-Snape planned to avoid three large expeditions attempting the South Col route, by climbing Everest via the more difficult West Ridge, then traversing to descend the standard South Col route. He reached nearly 7500m on acclimatisation sorties, but bad weather and a strong avalanche risk changed Macartney-Snape’s plans to ascend via the South Col route. After two preparatory trips through the Khumbu Icefall to the Western Cwm, he left his team on 7 May to attempt the summit solo and without supplemental oxygen, carrying a pack with a tent, food, fuel and a movie camera to the South Col at 8000m. Light-headed and plagued by bouts of diarrhoea following the challenging solo climb up the Lhotse Face, Macartney-Snape rested a day before setting out for the summit of Everest at 9.30pm on 10 May in bright moonlight. Climbing solo, weak with nausea and diarrhoea and having eaten little in the previous days, it took nearly six hours in –30 C cold for him to ascend from 8,230 m and 8,536 m, nearly falling to his death at midnight when stopping to adjust the movie camera he carried. Then he climbed the South-East Ridge from the South Summit to the true summit. He achieved his second ascent of Everest at about 9.45 am on 11 May, the first to climb from sea to summit. On the summit he unfurled the flag of the Australian Geographic Society, his sponsor, and that of the Foundation for Humanity’s Adulthood (now named the World Transformation Movement).

In 1993 he received the Member in the Order of Australia (AM)
Order of Australia
The Order of Australia is an order of chivalry established on 14 February 1975 by Elizabeth II, Queen of Australia, "for the purpose of according recognition to Australian citizens and other persons for achievement or for meritorious service"...

 for service to mountaineering and to international relations, presumably in part for recognition of this achievement.

Mt Sarmiento

In 1995 Macartney-Snape, Stephen Venables
Stephen Venables
Stephen Venables is a British mountaineer and writer, and is a past president of the South Georgia Association and of the Alpine Club.-Mountaineer:...

, John Roskelley
John Roskelley
John Roskelley is a noted mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington, and is known for his first ascents and notable ascents of 7000 and 8000 meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan.-Notable ascents:...

, Jim Wickwire
Jim Wickwire
Jim Wickwire is a retired attorney in Seattle, Washington, most famous as the first American to reach the top of K2, the world's second-highest mountain, and then for surviving the night in the open just below the summit....

 and Charlie Porter
Charlie Porter
Charlie Porter is an American rock climber, mountaineer and adventurer. He is best known for his bold first ascents in Yosemite , Canada and Alaska; and his significant influence on other notable climbers and the climbing community, in part due to his creation and development of innovative...

 attempted a new route on Mt Sarmiento, on the western shores of Tierra del Fuego
Tierra del Fuego
Tierra del Fuego is an archipelago off the southernmost tip of the South American mainland, across the Strait of Magellan. The archipelago consists of a main island Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego divided between Chile and Argentina with an area of , and a group of smaller islands including Cape...

, where Macartney-Snape, Roskelley and Venables summited via new route up the southwest face of the western summit.

Yangma

In 2010 Macartney-Snape successfully summited a 6,500m unclimbed peak in remote Eastern Nepal
Nepal
Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India...

 with a team that included four members of the ANUMC Himalayan Expedition of 1978 to Dunagiri.

Association with Jeremy Griffith and involvement in the World Transformation Movement

Macartney-Snape is a founding director and patron of the World Transformation Movement (WTM), formerly known as the Foundation for Humanity’s Adulthood (FHA), an organisation dedicated to understanding and ameliorating the human condition. In particular the World Transformation Movement supports the work of Australian biologist Jeremy Griffith
Jeremy Griffith
Jeremy Griffith is an Australian biologist and author on the subject of the human condition. He first gained notoriety for his comprehensive search for the Tasmanian Tiger or Thylacine conducted from 1967 to 1973...

.

In 1987 the Australian Geographic Society, founded by businessman Dick Smith
Dick Smith
Dick Smith may refer to:*Dick Smith , Australian entrepreneur**Dick Smith , electrical retailer in Australia.**Dick Smith Foods, food brand in Australia*Dick Smith , former player with Manchester United...

, arranged a function at which Macartney-Snape made a speech. Griffith attended the function and met with Macartney-Snape. Several months later they met again where Griffith discussed his ideas with Macartney-Snape and gave him a draft copy of his first book Free: The End of the Human Condition. Macartney-Snape said that the explanation given in the book for human nature "made total sense". Macartney-Snape subsequently became involved in the World Transformation Movement and in 1990 on Everest’s summit filmed himself saying “It is time to climb the mountains of the mind”. When Griffith published Beyond the Human Condition in 1991 it featured a foreword written by Macartney-Snape.

Defamation case

In 1995 an Australian Broadcasting Corporation
Australian Broadcasting Corporation
The Australian Broadcasting Corporation, commonly referred to as "the ABC" , is Australia's national public broadcaster...

 Four Corners program was broadcast and a feature article was published in The Sydney Morning Herald
The Sydney Morning Herald
The Sydney Morning Herald is a daily broadsheet newspaper published by Fairfax Media in Sydney, Australia. Founded in 1831 as the Sydney Herald, the SMH is the oldest continuously published newspaper in Australia. The newspaper is published six days a week. The newspaper's Sunday counterpart, The...

 newspaper concerning Macartney-Snape, Griffith and the World Transformation Movement. In 2003 and 2005 respectively the publications were found by NSW Supreme Court juries to be defamatory of Macartney-Snape, Griffith and the World Transformation Movement. In 2008 Macartney-Snape was awarded almost $500,000 plus costs for the loss and damage caused by the broadcast, with the total payout expected to exceed $1 million. Macartney-Snape said “Thirteen years later the truth has caught up with the lie”. In 2009 The Sydney Morning Herald
The Sydney Morning Herald
The Sydney Morning Herald is a daily broadsheet newspaper published by Fairfax Media in Sydney, Australia. Founded in 1831 as the Sydney Herald, the SMH is the oldest continuously published newspaper in Australia. The newspaper is published six days a week. The newspaper's Sunday counterpart, The...

 published an apology for the harm caused by the article.

Other interests

  • Nepal Eye Program Australia
  • Fred Hollows Foundation
  • Leave No Trace Australia
  • Outdoor Council of Australia
  • Macartney-Snape is a professional speaker

Awards

  • Keys to the City of Sydney
  • Medal of the Order of Australia (OAM)
    Order of Australia
    The Order of Australia is an order of chivalry established on 14 February 1975 by Elizabeth II, Queen of Australia, "for the purpose of according recognition to Australian citizens and other persons for achievement or for meritorious service"...

     (1987). For achievement in mountaineering.
  • Member in the Order of Australia (AM)
    Order of Australia
    The Order of Australia is an order of chivalry established on 14 February 1975 by Elizabeth II, Queen of Australia, "for the purpose of according recognition to Australian citizens and other persons for achievement or for meritorious service"...

     (1993). For service to mountaineering and to international relations.
  • Australian Sports Medal
    Australian Sports Medal
    The Australian Sports Medal was an award given during 2000 to recognise achievements in Australian sport.Recipients of the award included competitors, coaches, sports scientists, office holders, and people who maintained sporting facilities and services. Over 18,000 Medals were...

     (2000). For Service To Mountaineering.

Books

  • Being Outside: A comprehensive manual for all who want to enjoy the outdoors Terrey Hills, N.S.W. : Australian Geographic, 1993. ISBN
  • Mountain adventurer Milton, Qld. : Jacaranda Press, 1992. ISBN
  • Everest from sea to summit Terrey Hills, N.S.W. : Australian Geographic, 1992. ISBN

Films

  • Everest: The Australian Challenge: The First Australian Mt Everest Expedition's ascent of the great Couloir Route Autumn 1984 Channel 9. 1984.
  • Harder than Everest: Gasherbrum IV Film Australia. 1987.
  • Everest: from Sea to Summit Australian Geographic. 1992.


See also

  • Mount Everest
    Mount Everest
    Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...

  • Mountaineer
    Mountaineer
    -Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...

  • Geelong Grammar School
    Geelong Grammar School
    Geelong Grammar School is an independent, Anglican, co-educational, boarding and day school. The school's main campus is located at Corio, on the northern outskirts of Geelong, Victoria, Australia, overlooking Corio Bay and Limeburners Bay....

  • Everest History
  • Personal webpage
  • Interview
  • Article by Jill Rowbotham first published in The Australian Magazine
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