Polly Allen Mellen
Encyclopedia
Polly Allen Mellen has been a stylist and fashion editor for more than 60 years at Harper's Bazaar
and Vogue
. From 1991 to 1999 she was the creative director of Allure
. Mellen formally retired from Conde Nast Publications
in 1994 and remains a consultant on various projects. She was born and raised in West Hartford, Connecticut
, and attended Miss Porter's School
. Mellen has been married to Henry Wigglesworth Mellen since 1965.
While Katharine Hepburn
is cited as one of Mellen's early influences in matters of style, her career began as the protégé of Diana Vreeland
. Under Vreeland's tutelage, Mellen became an editor at Harper’s Bazaar, and later at American Vogue
. In the course of her career, Mellen has collaborated with such photographers as Richard Avedon
, Helmut Newton
, and Irving Penn
. Richard Avedon said of her: "She was and still is the most creative sittings editor I ever worked with." Mellen has been known for her enthusiastic support of certain young designers both in the personal and business aspects of their lives. "She’s never lost her enthusiasm, in a field where everyone seems so jaded," says Isaac Mizrahi
.
In the late 70’s and early 80’s, Holly Brubach, curator of the YOOX Vintage project, worked with Mellen at Vogue
, beginning an ongoing conversation sparked by mutual curiosity and respect. On this occasion and especially for YOOX, Polly and Holly bring their love of fashion and their historical perspective to bear on a selection of rare vintage finds, with commentary that alternates between anecdotal recollection and expert suggestions about how a specific item could be worn to best advantage in the context of the latest fashion.
According to Vera Wang
: "Polly has the most extraordinary ability to adapt to the future. So many editors and even designers get bogged down in their own pasts. But her attitude has been consistently progressive—that’s why she has managed to remain in style for so many decades."
Mellen has appeared in a number of documentaries on the fashion industry including the 1995 film Unzipped
.
This comment is taken from Janet Maslin
's New York Times review.
Here's a quote from book The Pocket Stylist: Behind-The-Scenes Expertise from a Fashion Pro by Kendall Farr Illustrated by Anja Kroencke Published 2004 Gotham.
Harper's Bazaar
Harper’s Bazaar is an American fashion magazine, first published in 1867. Harper’s Bazaar is published by Hearst and, as a magazine, considers itself to be the style resource for “women who are the first to buy the best, from casual to couture.”...
and Vogue
Vogue (magazine)
Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine that is published monthly in 18 national and one regional edition by Condé Nast.-History:In 1892 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States. When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly began...
. From 1991 to 1999 she was the creative director of Allure
Allure (magazine)
Allure is the leading U.S. women’s beauty magazine, published monthly by Condé Nast in New York City. It was founded in 1991 by editor in chief Linda Wells, who has been at the helm of the magazine ever since. From its inception, the magazine has been widely recognized for its intelligent,...
. Mellen formally retired from Conde Nast Publications
Condé Nast Publications
Condé Nast, a division of Advance Publications, is a magazine publisher. In the U.S., it produces 18 consumer magazines, including Architectural Digest, Bon Appétit, GQ, The New Yorker, Vanity Fair, and Vogue, as well as four business-to-business publications, 27 websites, and more than 50 apps...
in 1994 and remains a consultant on various projects. She was born and raised in West Hartford, Connecticut
West Hartford, Connecticut
West Hartford is a town located in Hartford County, Connecticut, United States. The town was incorporated in 1854. Prior to that date, the town was a parish of Hartford....
, and attended Miss Porter's School
Miss Porter's School
Miss Porter's School, sometimes simply referred to as Porter's or Farmington, is a private college preparatory school for girls located in Farmington, Connecticut.- History :...
. Mellen has been married to Henry Wigglesworth Mellen since 1965.
While Katharine Hepburn
Katharine Hepburn
Katharine Houghton Hepburn was an American actress of film, stage, and television. In a career that spanned 62 years as a leading lady, she was best known for playing strong-willed, sophisticated women in both dramas and comedies...
is cited as one of Mellen's early influences in matters of style, her career began as the protégé of Diana Vreeland
Diana Vreeland
Diana Vreeland was a noted columnist and editor in the field of fashion. She worked for the fashion magazines Harper's Bazaar and Vogue and the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.Born as Diana Dalziel, Vreeland was the eldest daughter of American socialite mother Emily Key Hoffman...
. Under Vreeland's tutelage, Mellen became an editor at Harper’s Bazaar, and later at American Vogue
Vogue (magazine)
Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine that is published monthly in 18 national and one regional edition by Condé Nast.-History:In 1892 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States. When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly began...
. In the course of her career, Mellen has collaborated with such photographers as Richard Avedon
Richard Avedon
Richard Avedon was an American photographer. An obituary published in The New York Times said that "his fashion and portrait photographs helped define America's image of style, beauty and culture for the last half-century."-Photography career:Avedon was born in New York City to a Jewish Russian...
, Helmut Newton
Helmut Newton
Helmut Newton, born Helmut Neustädter was a German-Australian photographer. He was a "prolific, widely imitated fashion photographer whose provocative, erotically charged black-and-white photos were a mainstay of Vogue and other publications."-Early life:Newton was born in Berlin, the son of Klara...
, and Irving Penn
Irving Penn
Irving Penn was an American photographer known for his portraiture and fashion photography.-Early career:Irving Penn studied under Alexey Brodovitch at the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art from which he was graduated in 1938. Penn's drawings were published by Harper's Bazaar and he...
. Richard Avedon said of her: "She was and still is the most creative sittings editor I ever worked with." Mellen has been known for her enthusiastic support of certain young designers both in the personal and business aspects of their lives. "She’s never lost her enthusiasm, in a field where everyone seems so jaded," says Isaac Mizrahi
Isaac Mizrahi
Isaac Mizrahi is an American TV presenter, fashion designer, and was the creative director of Liz Claiborne. He is best known for his eponymous fashion lines.-Early life:...
.
In the late 70’s and early 80’s, Holly Brubach, curator of the YOOX Vintage project, worked with Mellen at Vogue
Vogue (magazine)
Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine that is published monthly in 18 national and one regional edition by Condé Nast.-History:In 1892 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States. When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly began...
, beginning an ongoing conversation sparked by mutual curiosity and respect. On this occasion and especially for YOOX, Polly and Holly bring their love of fashion and their historical perspective to bear on a selection of rare vintage finds, with commentary that alternates between anecdotal recollection and expert suggestions about how a specific item could be worn to best advantage in the context of the latest fashion.
According to Vera Wang
Vera Wang
Vera Ellen Wang is a Chinese American fashion designer based in New York City and former figure skater. She is known for her wide clientele of couture bridesmaid gowns and wedding gown collections.-Personal life:...
: "Polly has the most extraordinary ability to adapt to the future. So many editors and even designers get bogged down in their own pasts. But her attitude has been consistently progressive—that’s why she has managed to remain in style for so many decades."
Ms. Mellen, creative director of AllureAllure (magazine)Allure is the leading U.S. women’s beauty magazine, published monthly by Condé Nast in New York City. It was founded in 1991 by editor in chief Linda Wells, who has been at the helm of the magazine ever since. From its inception, the magazine has been widely recognized for its intelligent,...
magazine, gazes into the mirror and intones a line from the speech she will give tomorrow when she receives a lifetime achievement award from the Council of Fashion Designers of AmericaCouncil of Fashion Designers of AmericaThe Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. is a not-for-profit trade association of over 350 of America’s foremost fashion and accessory designers. As of 2009, Diane von Fürstenberg is the group's President and Steven Kolb is the Executive Director...
. "I am much too young for such an award. . . ." (She's 68.)
Mr. Mizrahi rolls his eyes. "Next year, make them give you the Perry EllisPerry EllisPerry Ellis was an American fashion designer who founded a sportswear house in the mid-1970s.-The rise of Perry Ellis:...
Award for Young Talent."
One thing they say about Ms. Mellen is that she is the last link to the great old-fashioned fashion editors. She was Diana VreelandDiana VreelandDiana Vreeland was a noted columnist and editor in the field of fashion. She worked for the fashion magazines Harper's Bazaar and Vogue and the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.Born as Diana Dalziel, Vreeland was the eldest daughter of American socialite mother Emily Key Hoffman...
's protegee, working at Harper's BazaarHarper's BazaarHarper’s Bazaar is an American fashion magazine, first published in 1867. Harper’s Bazaar is published by Hearst and, as a magazine, considers itself to be the style resource for “women who are the first to buy the best, from casual to couture.”...
and then for 25 years at VogueVogue (magazine)Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine that is published monthly in 18 national and one regional edition by Condé Nast.-History:In 1892 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States. When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly began...
, moving to AllureAllure (magazine)Allure is the leading U.S. women’s beauty magazine, published monthly by Condé Nast in New York City. It was founded in 1991 by editor in chief Linda Wells, who has been at the helm of the magazine ever since. From its inception, the magazine has been widely recognized for its intelligent,...
in 1991.
"From Vreeland's rib came Polly Mellen," says Richard AvedonRichard AvedonRichard Avedon was an American photographer. An obituary published in The New York Times said that "his fashion and portrait photographs helped define America's image of style, beauty and culture for the last half-century."-Photography career:Avedon was born in New York City to a Jewish Russian...
, who will present the award. "From that day on, EdenGarden of EdenThe Garden of Eden is in the Bible's Book of Genesis as being the place where the first man, Adam, and his wife, Eve, lived after they were created by God. Literally, the Bible speaks about a garden in Eden...
never looked better."
Another thing they say about Ms. Mellen is that she is among the first to discover young designers. She goes to fashion shows at odd hours and in odd places, like warehouses and wrestling arenas. Often, she is the only one over 25 in the place.
At the shows of the big designers, she is not one of those poker faces in the dark glasses. When something special hits the runway, her arms shoot up above her head and her hands come together in the loud, long Polly clap.
Other editors stare. Some jot down the style in their books; some snicker. Never mind. Ms. Mellen has expressed the joy of fashion, and for that, designers adore her. Geoffrey BeeneGeoffrey BeeneGeoffrey Beene was an American fashion designer.Beene was born in Haynesville, Louisiana. He studied medicine at Tulane University, but dropped out in 1946, after three years. He moved to New York in 1947 to attend the Traphagen School of Fashion...
calls her "the industry's cheerleader: rah, rah, rah!"
Mellen has appeared in a number of documentaries on the fashion industry including the 1995 film Unzipped
Unzipped (film)
Unzipped is a 1995 documentary film, directed by Douglas Keeve. It follows fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi, Keeve's then boyfriend, as he plans and ultimately shows his fall 1994 collection...
.
This comment is taken from Janet Maslin
Janet Maslin
Janet Maslin is an American journalist, best known as a film and literary critic for The New York Times. She served as the Times film critic from 1977–1999.- Biography :...
's New York Times review.
A little while later, he is skillfully trying out the same anecdote on Polly Allen Mellen, a fashion arbiter who is enough to out-doyenne any and all of the characters in Robert Altman.Robert AltmanRobert Bernard Altman was an American film director and screenwriter known for making films that are highly naturalistic, but with a stylized perspective. In 2006, the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences recognized his body of work with an Academy Honorary Award.His films MASH , McCabe and...
's "Ready-to-Wear." (Comparisons between the two films are invidious but unavoidable. For electricity and fun, not to mention fashion sense, this one comes out miles ahead.) Ms. Mellen listens to Mr. Mizrahi in ways that make it clear his charm is working, and that charm counts for everything in this universe. For her part, Ms. Mellen advises him to "Be careful of makeup; be careful!" She sounds solemn enough to be warning Caesar about the Ides of MarchIdes of MarchThe Ides of March is the name of the 15th day of March in the Roman calendar, probably referring to the day of the full moon. The word Ides comes from the Latin word "Idus" and means "half division" especially in relation to a month. It is a word that was used widely in the Roman calendar...
.
Here's a quote from book The Pocket Stylist: Behind-The-Scenes Expertise from a Fashion Pro by Kendall Farr Illustrated by Anja Kroencke Published 2004 Gotham.
Here’s another example of a woman with a winning uniform. Polly Allen Mellen, a respected fashion editor for VogueVogue (magazine)Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine that is published monthly in 18 national and one regional edition by Condé Nast.-History:In 1892 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States. When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly began...
and AllureAllure (magazine)Allure is the leading U.S. women’s beauty magazine, published monthly by Condé Nast in New York City. It was founded in 1991 by editor in chief Linda Wells, who has been at the helm of the magazine ever since. From its inception, the magazine has been widely recognized for its intelligent,...
, and protégé of Diana VreelandDiana VreelandDiana Vreeland was a noted columnist and editor in the field of fashion. She worked for the fashion magazines Harper's Bazaar and Vogue and the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.Born as Diana Dalziel, Vreeland was the eldest daughter of American socialite mother Emily Key Hoffman...
someone whose style I’ve admired as an example of one’s image and uniform successfully evolving over time. In 1989, I spotted Polly, (in her sixties) walking into a fashion show. She was wearing the au courant black leather Perfecto motorcycle jacket of the moment. A shape and proportion (cropped) that flattered her frame perfectly…I’ll mention that her signature steel grey bob cut punctuated her right now simplicity of her look.