Ply-split Braiding
Encyclopedia
Unlike Weaving
or many forms of braiding
where cloth is formed by threads interlacing in an over-under sequence, Ply-split Braiding is a technique where one twisted cord (“splitter”) passes through another twisted cord or cords splitting the plies of the latter cords (“splittee” cords). Pattern is formed by cord color, and splitting order.
In 1974 and 1975, two graduate students from UCLA conducted field research in Rajasthan and Gujarat in north-western India. They were introduced to Ishwar Singh, a master girth maker, who spent several weeks with them demonstrating the construction of the girths. Their 1982 publication, "The Ply-Split Camel Girths of West India" was the first to document the entire traditional process, including spinning, plying, cordmaking, and three structures of ply-splitting. These are SCOT, mentioned above, as well as plain oblique twining (POT) and single-course oblique twining (TLOI).
The designs showed prominence in the market and were even used to decorate camels for wedding processions.
for splitting the plies of one or more cords and drawing a cord back through the split cords.
Weaving
Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The other methods are knitting, lace making and felting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling...
or many forms of braiding
Braid
A braid is a complex structure or pattern formed by intertwining three or more strands of flexible material such as textile fibres, wire, or human hair...
where cloth is formed by threads interlacing in an over-under sequence, Ply-split Braiding is a technique where one twisted cord (“splitter”) passes through another twisted cord or cords splitting the plies of the latter cords (“splittee” cords). Pattern is formed by cord color, and splitting order.
History
Ply-split Braiding is an ancient art that is practiced for making elaborate camel girths and other animal regalia of hand-spun goat hair, wool or sometimes cotton in northwestern India. The first written description of the technique appeared in 1976 with Virginia Harvey's "Split-Ply Twining". In the introduction, she describes seeing two camel girths at Convergence 1974, and says that Peter Collingwood "suspected the pieces were produced by pulling one yarn through the ply of another". The ply-split girths examined for this publication were created with only one technique, now known as single course oblique twining (SCOT).In 1974 and 1975, two graduate students from UCLA conducted field research in Rajasthan and Gujarat in north-western India. They were introduced to Ishwar Singh, a master girth maker, who spent several weeks with them demonstrating the construction of the girths. Their 1982 publication, "The Ply-Split Camel Girths of West India" was the first to document the entire traditional process, including spinning, plying, cordmaking, and three structures of ply-splitting. These are SCOT, mentioned above, as well as plain oblique twining (POT) and single-course oblique twining (TLOI).
The designs showed prominence in the market and were even used to decorate camels for wedding processions.
Modern usage
Today, the ply-split braiding technique is used by fiber artists to create handmade decorative items including neckwear, bags, household décor, garments and three dimensional structures such as baskets. Contemporary braid makers use a variety of yarns such as cotton, linen, hemp, silk, paper, or rayon. The ply-splitting process requires minimal equipment: A four-hook cord maker to make the cords, and a gripfidGripfid
The Gripfid is an invention of the late knotting expert Stuart Grainger. A small knotter's fid has an added "grip", a hollow shaft that ends near the point with a vee that acts as a jamming cleat....
for splitting the plies of one or more cords and drawing a cord back through the split cords.