Peak Pobeda
Encyclopedia
Jengish Chokusu is the highest mountain
in the Tian Shan
mountain system at 7439 metres (24,406 ft). It lies on the Kyrgyzstan
-China
border, in the Kakshaal Too
, the highest part of the Tien Shan, southeast of lake Issyk Kul
.
is Jengish Choqusu, which means "Victory Peak"; its Russian
name is Pik Pobedy (or Peak Pobeda) meaning the same. In Uighur, it is called Tömür, which is also the official name of the mountain in China. The Chinese
name Tuōmù'ěr Fēng is a combination of the Uighur tomur, meaning 'iron' and Chinese feng meaning 'peak'.
(7,010 m / 22,998 ft), separated by the South Engilchek (or Inylchek) glacier, where base camps for both mountains are usually located. The massif runs at right angles to the glaciers it spills into three alpine valleys on the north (Kyrgyzstan), all eventually running to the Engilchek glacier, the largest in the Tian Shan. Its main summit is usually approached from the Zvozdochka (Russian for "little star") glacier, which is coloured red with rocks from Jengish Chokusu.
Administratively, the Kyrgyzstan side of the mountain is in the Ak-Suu District
of Issyk-Kul Province, and the Chinese side, in Wensu County
of the Aksu Prefecture
of Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.
in the world, and by geologists is considered the most northerly 7,000-metre mountain. (Because mountains often contain ice caps on top of rock, mountaineers
consider Khan Tengri
, the Tian Shan's second highest peak, as the northernmost 7,000-metre summit.)
The South Inylchek (Enylchek) Glacier and its side glaciers occupy the entire north side of Peak Jengish Chokusu. This glacier, currently at 62 km in length, is the fourth longest outside of the world's polar regions.
was believed to be the highest peak in the range until Jengish Chokusu's survey in 1946. A Russian expedition mounted in 1938 to mark the 20th anniversary of the founding of the Communist Youth movement Komsomol claimed to have climbed the highest peak in the area, the summit being reached on September 19 by L.Gutman, E. Ivanov and A. Sidorenko.They measured the altitude as 6900 meters, and named the peak Pik 20 Jahre Komsomol. Survey by another team in 1943 found the peak to be no less than 7439 meters high. The peak was renamed as Pik Pobeda (Victory Peak) in 1946 to commemorate the Russian victory in World War 2. The tremendous difference in altitude naturally led to the 1938 ascent being called into question, although the official Soviet stand is to uphold the 1938 ascent. Jengish Chokusu's first indisputably verified ascent was in 1956 by Vitaly Abalakov
's party. A Chinese expedition climbed the peak from the Chinese side in 1977: the expedition book makes no mention of the Russian first ascent and gives the impression that the Chinese ascent was the first climb.
The first winter ascent of the peak was made by Valery Khrichtchatyi in February 1990.
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...
in the Tian Shan
Tian Shan
The Tian Shan , also spelled Tien Shan, is a large mountain system located in Central Asia. The highest peak in the Tian Shan is Victory Peak , ....
mountain system at 7439 metres (24,406 ft). It lies on the Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan , officially the Kyrgyz Republic is one of the world's six independent Turkic states . Located in Central Asia, landlocked and mountainous, Kyrgyzstan is bordered by Kazakhstan to the north, Uzbekistan to the west, Tajikistan to the southwest and China to the east...
-China
China
Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture...
border, in the Kakshaal Too
Kakshaal Too
The Kakshaal Too is a large range in the Central Tien-Shan. It stretches for a length of 582 km between Kyrgyzstan and China....
, the highest part of the Tien Shan, southeast of lake Issyk Kul
Issyk Kul
Issyk Kul is an endorheic lake in the northern Tian Shan mountains in eastern Kyrgyzstan. It is the tenth largest lake in the world by volume and the second largest saline lake after the Caspian Sea. Although it is surrounded by snow-capped peaks, it never freezes; hence its name, which means "hot...
.
Names
The mountain's official name in KyrgyzKyrgyz language
Kyrgyz or Kirgiz, also Kirghiz, Kyrghiz, Qyrghiz is a Turkic language and, together with Russian, an official language of Kyrgyzstan...
is Jengish Choqusu, which means "Victory Peak"; its Russian
Russian language
Russian is a Slavic language used primarily in Russia, Belarus, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. It is an unofficial but widely spoken language in Ukraine, Moldova, Latvia, Turkmenistan and Estonia and, to a lesser extent, the other countries that were once constituent republics...
name is Pik Pobedy (or Peak Pobeda) meaning the same. In Uighur, it is called Tömür, which is also the official name of the mountain in China. The Chinese
Chinese language
The Chinese language is a language or language family consisting of varieties which are mutually intelligible to varying degrees. Originally the indigenous languages spoken by the Han Chinese in China, it forms one of the branches of Sino-Tibetan family of languages...
name Tuōmù'ěr Fēng is a combination of the Uighur tomur, meaning 'iron' and Chinese feng meaning 'peak'.
Description
Jengish Chokusu is a massif, with several summits along its lengthy ridge. Only its main summit breaks 7,000 m. It is located 16 km (9.9 mi) southwest of Khan TengriKhan Tengri
Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is located on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan border, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial cap rises to...
(7,010 m / 22,998 ft), separated by the South Engilchek (or Inylchek) glacier, where base camps for both mountains are usually located. The massif runs at right angles to the glaciers it spills into three alpine valleys on the north (Kyrgyzstan), all eventually running to the Engilchek glacier, the largest in the Tian Shan. Its main summit is usually approached from the Zvozdochka (Russian for "little star") glacier, which is coloured red with rocks from Jengish Chokusu.
Administratively, the Kyrgyzstan side of the mountain is in the Ak-Suu District
Ak-Suu District
Ak-Suu is a raion of Issyk Kul Province in eastern Kyrgyzstan. The capital lies at Teploklyuchenka. -Geography:Located in Kyrgyzstan's eastern corner, the district borders in the north with the Almaty Province of Kazakhstan, and in the east, with the Aksu Prefecture of China's Xinjiang Uyghur...
of Issyk-Kul Province, and the Chinese side, in Wensu County
Wensu County
The Wensu County is a county in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region and is under the administration of the Aksu Prefecture. It contains an area of 14,309 km2. According to the 2002 census, it has a population of 210,000....
of the Aksu Prefecture
Aksu Prefecture
Aksu Prefecture is located in mid-western Xinjiang, China. It has an area of 132,500 km² and 2.19 million inhabitants .The name Aksu is Turkic for 'white water'.-Geography:...
of Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.
Records
Jengish Chokusu is the highest mountain in Kyrgyzstan. Jengish Chokusu has the most northerly 7,000-metre rockRock (geology)
In geology, rock or stone is a naturally occurring solid aggregate of minerals and/or mineraloids.The Earth's outer solid layer, the lithosphere, is made of rock. In general rocks are of three types, namely, igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic...
in the world, and by geologists is considered the most northerly 7,000-metre mountain. (Because mountains often contain ice caps on top of rock, mountaineers
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
consider Khan Tengri
Khan Tengri
Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is located on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan border, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial cap rises to...
, the Tian Shan's second highest peak, as the northernmost 7,000-metre summit.)
The South Inylchek (Enylchek) Glacier and its side glaciers occupy the entire north side of Peak Jengish Chokusu. This glacier, currently at 62 km in length, is the fourth longest outside of the world's polar regions.
History
Although Jengish Chokusu is over 400 metres higher, Khan TengriKhan Tengri
Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is located on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan border, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial cap rises to...
was believed to be the highest peak in the range until Jengish Chokusu's survey in 1946. A Russian expedition mounted in 1938 to mark the 20th anniversary of the founding of the Communist Youth movement Komsomol claimed to have climbed the highest peak in the area, the summit being reached on September 19 by L.Gutman, E. Ivanov and A. Sidorenko.They measured the altitude as 6900 meters, and named the peak Pik 20 Jahre Komsomol. Survey by another team in 1943 found the peak to be no less than 7439 meters high. The peak was renamed as Pik Pobeda (Victory Peak) in 1946 to commemorate the Russian victory in World War 2. The tremendous difference in altitude naturally led to the 1938 ascent being called into question, although the official Soviet stand is to uphold the 1938 ascent. Jengish Chokusu's first indisputably verified ascent was in 1956 by Vitaly Abalakov
Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov
Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov was a Soviet/Russian mountaineer and inventor.Brother of Yevgeniy Abalakov, another famous alpinist, he made the first Soviet ascent of Lenin Peak in 1934 and two more ascents of this mountain. In 1936 he also made the ascent of Khan Tengri.In 1938, he and others from...
's party. A Chinese expedition climbed the peak from the Chinese side in 1977: the expedition book makes no mention of the Russian first ascent and gives the impression that the Chinese ascent was the first climb.
The first winter ascent of the peak was made by Valery Khrichtchatyi in February 1990.