Ontario Access Coalition
Encyclopedia
The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) is a volunteer, non-profit organization dedicated to maintaining access to outdoor rock climbing
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...

 locations in the province of Ontario, Canada. Working on behalf of the climbing community, the OAC negotiates with landowners, conservation authorities, and property managers to keep climbing and bouldering
Bouldering
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...

 areas open in an environmentally responsible manner.

The OAC was incorporated in 2009 as a non-profit corporation. It was originally formed by the Toronto section of the Alpine Club of Canada
Alpine Club of Canada
The Alpine Club of Canada is a mountain club with a National Office in Canmore, Alberta that has been a focal point for Canadian mountaineering since its founding in 1906. The club was co-founded by Arthur Oliver Wheeler, who served as its first president, and Elizabeth Parker, a journalist for...

as a committee but separated in 2008 to focus on climbing access issues.

Code of Ethics

The Ontario Access Coalition Code of Ethics can be summarized by the following points.
  • Aspire to climb and boulder without leaving a trace
  • Maintain a low profile
  • Use existing trails
  • Dispose of human waste properly
  • Understand and respect historical ethics and restrictions
  • Respect the rules
  • Park and camp only in designated areas
  • Climb and boulder safely
  • Increased climber awareness of key plant species to be protected

OAC Access History

Fall 2010 The OAC participates in the Bruce Peninsula Outdoor Festival by the Bruce Trail Conservancy, and formally promotes bouldering as an activity to the public
Fall 2010 The OAC, MEC, and Grey Sauble Conservation Authority facilitate the replacement of fixed hardware at the Old Baldy Conservation area. This project will see significantly improved climbing safety at the area.
Summer 2010 The OAC releases climber survey results from 2009 and makes aggregate data available to Land Managers specific to the areas they manage.
Summer 2010 The OAC and Bruce Peninsula National Park establish a 'Site Host Program' at Halfway Log Dump to promote stewardship at the bouldering area.
Spring 2010 The OAC creates a free interpretive guidebook for bouldering at the Halfway Log Dump that promotes environmental stewardship and creates awareness of the local endangered species. It becomes available for download on their site.
Spring 2010 A formal bouldering access agreement is reached with the Bruce Peninsula National Park. Halfway Log Dump re-opens to boulderers. A formal environmental monitoring plan is setup.
Spring 2010 The OAC and Halton Region Conservation Authority continue to facilitate the bolting project at Rattlesnake Point and Buffalo Crag.
Winter 2009/2010 The OAC puts in place interim guidelines for Bouldering at the Niagara Glen. The Niagara Parks Commission invites the OAC to provide feedback for the formal management planning process.
Winter 2009/2010 The Niagara Parks Commission listens to the voices of over 1000 responders to an OAC driven survey and reverses the recommendation to close the Niagara Glen to bouldering.
Spring 2009 The OAC begins the activity assessment process with Parks Canada to determine the feasibility of re-opening bouldering to the Halfway Log Dump Bruce Peninsula National Park.
Spring 2009 The OAC hosts an Earth Day clean up at Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area. Over 150 climbers attend the event.
Spring 2009 The OAC begins offering individual and corporate memberships.
Spring 2009 The OAC and Halton Region Conservation Authority work together to organize the bolting project at Rattlesnake Point and Buffalo Crag. New safety anchors are installed to provide minimal environmental impact and increase climber safety.
Winter/Spring 2009 The OAC incorporates using a grant from Mountain Equipment Co-op
Mountain Equipment Co-op
Mountain Equipment Co-op is a Canadian consumers' cooperative, which sells outdoor recreation gear and clothing to its members exclusively. MEC is notable for its commitment to environmental protection and other causes. As a co-op, MEC sells only to customers who hold a lifetime membership, which...

.

External links

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