Ngadi Chuli
Encyclopedia
Ngadi Chuli is a high peak in the Mansiri Himal
Mansiri Himal
Mansiri Himal is a small, high subrange. of the Himalaya in north-central Nepal, about 100km northwest of Kathmandu. The Marsyangdi River separates the Mansiri from the Annapurnas to the southwest, then an upper tributary Dudh Khola separates Peri Himal to the northwest...

 (or Manaslu
Manaslu
Manaslu , also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world, and is located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. Its name, which means "Mountain of the Spirit", comes from the Sanskrit word Manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul"...

 Himal), also known as the Gurkha Massif, in Nepal
Nepal
Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India...

. It is flanked by Manaslu
Manaslu
Manaslu , also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world, and is located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. Its name, which means "Mountain of the Spirit", comes from the Sanskrit word Manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul"...

 to the north and Himalchuli
Himalchuli
Himalchuli is the second highest mountain in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies south of Manaslu, one of the Eight-thousanders. Himalchuli has three main peaks: East , West and North...

 to the south.

Despite its top 20 height, Ngadi Chuli has only been climbed once or twice. The probable first ascent occurred in 1970. Hiroshi Watanabe and Sherpa Lhaksa Tsering, members of a Japanese expedition, climbed the east ridge and face. They left their camp V, at about 7500 metres, for a summit attack. Very near the top they were out of sight for about two hours. After reappearing, they suffered a fatal fall down an ice wall. A later Japanese expedition recovered their bodies, but all film had been exposed and no conclusive evidence could be found that they had reached the summit. In order to achieve a confirmed ascent of the mountain, the Japanese organized three more expeditions, but these all failed.

The first confirmed ascent, and as of 2005 the last attempt on the mountain, was in 1979 by the Polish
Poland
Poland , officially the Republic of Poland , is a country in Central Europe bordered by Germany to the west; the Czech Republic and Slovakia to the south; Ukraine, Belarus and Lithuania to the east; and the Baltic Sea and Kaliningrad Oblast, a Russian exclave, to the north...

 climber
Climber
Climber may refer to:*Climber, a participant in the activity of climbing*Climber, general name for a vine*Climber , a robot that goes upward or downward on a track*Climber , by Nintendo...

s Ryszard Gajewski
Ryszard Gajewski
Ryszard Gajewski is a Polish mountaineer best known for the first winter ascent of Manaslu on January 12, 1984 together with Maciej Berbeka.- Eight-thousanders :* Manaslu with Maciej Berbeka...

 and Maciej Pawlikowski
Maciej Pawlikowski
Maciej Pawlikowski is a Polish mountaineer. He is best known for the first winter ascent of Cho Oyu together with Maciej Berbeka on February 12, 1985. He is also the current president of the Zakopane Mountaineering Club.-External links:**...

via the West buttress.

Timeline

  • 1961 First reconnaissance by Japanese climbers.
  • 1969 Third Japanese attempt reached 7350 m.
  • 1970 Probable first ascent, via the east ridge and face.
  • 1978 Three climbers die in an avalanche during the seventh Japanese attempt.
  • 1979 First confirmed ascent, by a Polish expedition.
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