Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa
Encyclopedia
Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa was a Sherpa
mountaineering
guide, climber and porter
, perhaps best known for his work as the climbing Sirdar for Scott Fischer
's Mountain Madness expedition to Everest in Spring 1996
, when a freak storm led to the deaths of eight climbers from several expeditions, considered one of the worst disasters in the history of Everest mountaineering. Notwithstanding controversy over his actions during that expedition, Lopsang was well-regarded in the mountaineering community, having summited Everest four times. Lopsang was killed in an avalanche in September 1996, while again on an expedition to climb Everest for what would have been a fifth ascent.
Lopsang reached the summit of Everest four times in four years, all without supplementary oxygen. During his career, Lopsang had worked as a climber and guide for both Rob Hall
and Scott Fischer
, two expedition leaders who ultimately died on Everest in the course of the May 10, 1996 tragedy.
During the spring and fall 1996 Everest climbing seasons, fifteen climbers died on the mountain, making it the deadliest single year in Everest history. Eight of them died on 11 May alone. The disaster gained wide publicity and raised questions about the commercialisation of Everest.
Journalist Jon Krakauer
, on assignment from Outside
magazine, was a member of one of the affected expeditions, and afterwards published the bestseller Into Thin Air
, which related his experience. Anatoli Boukreev
, a guide for Fischer's expedition whose actions were criticized somewhat by Krakauer, co-authored a rebuttal book called The Climb
. The dispute sparked a debate within the climbing community as to the proper role of climbing guides on Everest, centering on the actions of the climbers and guides from the summit parties from these two expeditions, who climbed together during the final and fateful summit push.
In the course of this controversy, Lopsang's actions during that summit climb, as that of others, came under some degree of scrutiny. Working as a guide for Scott Fischer's Mountain Madness expedition, on May 10 Lopsang climbed to the summit without using supplemental oxygen, a practice that was criticised by Krakauer as unusual and unadvised for a climbing guide (Boukreev had also climbed that day without using supplemental oxygen). Lopsang also acknowledged that at times during the expedition, including the day before the summit climb, he had carried an especially large load of equipment, including "30 pounds of other member's personal gear", and that at times he had closely assisted Sandy Pittman
(a journalist member of the expedition reporting for NBC by email dispatches sent via satellite telephone and computer), using a "short rope" technique. Lopsang later explained that he himself made such decisions, so as to provide assistance to any team member "who was having trouble. This was to ensure that all group members would have a good chance of making the summit." Lopsang acknowledged that on the day of this fateful summit push, he suffered from vomiting and fatigue, which Krakauer had noted as symptoms of overexertion; but Lopsang explained "I have been over 8,000 meters many times, each time I vomit. It is just something I do. It means nothing. I have done it on all successful expeditions, when leading or following. I did it at camp I, II, etc. For me, it has nothing to do with altitude sickness."
Late in the day of May 10, as bad weather closed in, Scott Fischer reached Lopsang, who was waiting for him near the summit. Fischer and Lopsang started their descent in bad weather, as Rob Hall and Doug Hansen ascended toward the summit. Lopsang sent Fischer down the mountain, and waited for Hall and Hansen to complete the summit. Lopsang reported that after ensuring that Hall and Hansen had safely summited and started their descent, he quickly descended to reach Fischer, apparently then in some difficulty. Lopsang then "physically dragged" an ill Fischer from the South Summit "until he could go no further", and waited together with him and Makalu Gau (a climber from another expedition also caught in the storm) for several hours, until Fischer finally urged Lopsang to leave and descend alone. Gau ultimately was rescued by another party of sherpa guides; Fischer apparently moved no further before he died high on Everest.
Lopsang's uncle, Ngawang Topche Sherpa, also working on the 1996 Mountain Madness expedition, fell ill and was evacuated by helicopter from Everest just prior to the fateful summit bid, suffering from cerebral and pulmonary edema. Hospitalised, Ngawang remained incapacitated in Kathmandu, never recovered, and eventually passed away some months after Lopsang.
face, and Camp IV at the South Col, the starting point for the final summit push, a large avalanche erupted, killing Lopsang; along with sherpa guide Dawa, and a French climber, Yves Bouchon.
Sherpa people
The Sherpa are an ethnic group from the most mountainous region of Nepal, high in the Himalayas. Sherpas migrated from the Kham region in eastern Tibet to Nepal within the last 300–400 years.The initial mountainous migration from Tibet was a search for beyul...
mountaineering
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
guide, climber and porter
Porter (carrier)
A porter, also called a bearer, is a person who shifts objects for others.-Historical meaning:Human adaptability and flexibility early led to the use of humans for shifting gear...
, perhaps best known for his work as the climbing Sirdar for Scott Fischer
Scott Fischer
Scott E. Fischer was an American climber and guide, and the first American to summit 27,940-foot Lhotse, fourth highest mountain in the world.-Career:...
's Mountain Madness expedition to Everest in Spring 1996
1996 Everest Disaster
The 1996 Mount Everest disaster refers to the events of 10-11 May 1996, when eight people died on Mount Everest during summit attempts. In the entire season, fifteen people died trying to reach the summit, making it the deadliest single year in Mount Everest's history...
, when a freak storm led to the deaths of eight climbers from several expeditions, considered one of the worst disasters in the history of Everest mountaineering. Notwithstanding controversy over his actions during that expedition, Lopsang was well-regarded in the mountaineering community, having summited Everest four times. Lopsang was killed in an avalanche in September 1996, while again on an expedition to climb Everest for what would have been a fifth ascent.
Mountaineering Achievements
Beyond his work in the course of the ill-fated Spring 1996 Everest expedition, Lopsang was a respected porter and guide with extensive Himalayan mountaineering experience, including:- Summit, Mount Everest with Nepali Women's expedition, Spring 1993
- Summit, Cho OyuCho OyuCho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
with Japanese expedition, Fall 1993 - Camp 4, Mount Everest, Japanese expedition, Winter 1993
- Summit, Mount Everest, Sagarmatha Environmental expedition, Spring 1994
- Summit, Mount Everest, New Zealand expedition, Spring 1995, led by Rob HallRob HallRob Hall , a native of New Zealand, was a mountaineer best known for being head guide of a 1996 Mount Everest expedition in which he, a fellow guide, and two clients perished. A best-selling account of the expedition was given in Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air...
- Summit, Broad PeakBroad PeakBroad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
, Scott Fischer party, Summer 1995 - Summit, Mount Everest, Scott Fischer party, Spring 1996 (3 hours on the summit)
Lopsang reached the summit of Everest four times in four years, all without supplementary oxygen. During his career, Lopsang had worked as a climber and guide for both Rob Hall
Rob Hall
Rob Hall , a native of New Zealand, was a mountaineer best known for being head guide of a 1996 Mount Everest expedition in which he, a fellow guide, and two clients perished. A best-selling account of the expedition was given in Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air...
and Scott Fischer
Scott Fischer
Scott E. Fischer was an American climber and guide, and the first American to summit 27,940-foot Lhotse, fourth highest mountain in the world.-Career:...
, two expedition leaders who ultimately died on Everest in the course of the May 10, 1996 tragedy.
Spring 1996 Everest Tragedy
By 1996, Lopsang had developed a reputation as a strong climber and capable guide, in part by his experience in helping to guide several successful expeditions with Rob Hall, a significant Himalayan expedition leader. Scott Fischer, another recognised Himalayan expedition leader, had established a new venture, Mountain Madness, and was planning a guided commercial expedition to Everest for spring 1996. Fischer, familiar with Lopsang's work and achievements, hired Lopsang to lead sherpas and assist clients as Sirdar for the Everest expedition.During the spring and fall 1996 Everest climbing seasons, fifteen climbers died on the mountain, making it the deadliest single year in Everest history. Eight of them died on 11 May alone. The disaster gained wide publicity and raised questions about the commercialisation of Everest.
Journalist Jon Krakauer
Jon Krakauer
Jon Krakauer is an American writer and mountaineer, primarily known for his writing about the outdoors and mountain-climbing...
, on assignment from Outside
Outside (magazine)
Outside is an American magazine focused on the outdoors. The first issue debuted in September 1977 with its mission statement declaring that the publication was "dedicated to covering the people, sports and activities, politics, art, literature, and hardware of the outdoors..."Its founders were...
magazine, was a member of one of the affected expeditions, and afterwards published the bestseller Into Thin Air
Into Thin Air
Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster is a 1997 bestselling non-fiction book written by Jon Krakauer. It details the author's presence at Mount Everest during the 1996 Mount Everest disaster when eight climbers were killed and several others were stranded by a 'rogue storm'...
, which related his experience. Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev, , was a Kazakhstani climber who made ascents of seven of the 8,000 metre peaks without supplemental oxygen. In total he made 18 successful ascents on peaks above 8000 m . Boukreev was lost under an avalanche on Annapurna...
, a guide for Fischer's expedition whose actions were criticized somewhat by Krakauer, co-authored a rebuttal book called The Climb
The Climb (book)
The Climb is an account by Russian mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev of the 1996 Everest Disaster, during which eight climbers lost their lives on Mount Everest. The co-author, G...
. The dispute sparked a debate within the climbing community as to the proper role of climbing guides on Everest, centering on the actions of the climbers and guides from the summit parties from these two expeditions, who climbed together during the final and fateful summit push.
In the course of this controversy, Lopsang's actions during that summit climb, as that of others, came under some degree of scrutiny. Working as a guide for Scott Fischer's Mountain Madness expedition, on May 10 Lopsang climbed to the summit without using supplemental oxygen, a practice that was criticised by Krakauer as unusual and unadvised for a climbing guide (Boukreev had also climbed that day without using supplemental oxygen). Lopsang also acknowledged that at times during the expedition, including the day before the summit climb, he had carried an especially large load of equipment, including "30 pounds of other member's personal gear", and that at times he had closely assisted Sandy Pittman
Sandy Hill (mountaineer)
Sandy Hill is a published author, a former New York fashion editor and contributing editor to Vogue, Allure and Conde Nast Traveler, and a mountaineer who became famous for being the fourth American woman to ascend the seven summits of the world. She is the 34th woman to ever climb and reach the...
(a journalist member of the expedition reporting for NBC by email dispatches sent via satellite telephone and computer), using a "short rope" technique. Lopsang later explained that he himself made such decisions, so as to provide assistance to any team member "who was having trouble. This was to ensure that all group members would have a good chance of making the summit." Lopsang acknowledged that on the day of this fateful summit push, he suffered from vomiting and fatigue, which Krakauer had noted as symptoms of overexertion; but Lopsang explained "I have been over 8,000 meters many times, each time I vomit. It is just something I do. It means nothing. I have done it on all successful expeditions, when leading or following. I did it at camp I, II, etc. For me, it has nothing to do with altitude sickness."
Late in the day of May 10, as bad weather closed in, Scott Fischer reached Lopsang, who was waiting for him near the summit. Fischer and Lopsang started their descent in bad weather, as Rob Hall and Doug Hansen ascended toward the summit. Lopsang sent Fischer down the mountain, and waited for Hall and Hansen to complete the summit. Lopsang reported that after ensuring that Hall and Hansen had safely summited and started their descent, he quickly descended to reach Fischer, apparently then in some difficulty. Lopsang then "physically dragged" an ill Fischer from the South Summit "until he could go no further", and waited together with him and Makalu Gau (a climber from another expedition also caught in the storm) for several hours, until Fischer finally urged Lopsang to leave and descend alone. Gau ultimately was rescued by another party of sherpa guides; Fischer apparently moved no further before he died high on Everest.
Lopsang's uncle, Ngawang Topche Sherpa, also working on the 1996 Mountain Madness expedition, fell ill and was evacuated by helicopter from Everest just prior to the fateful summit bid, suffering from cerebral and pulmonary edema. Hospitalised, Ngawang remained incapacitated in Kathmandu, never recovered, and eventually passed away some months after Lopsang.
September 1996 Expedition
In the fall of 1996, Lopsang returned to Everest as a guide, working for a Japanese expedition. On September 25, 1996, during the ascent on the southeast ridge route in the area between Camp III at the top of the LhotseLhotse
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...
face, and Camp IV at the South Col, the starting point for the final summit push, a large avalanche erupted, killing Lopsang; along with sherpa guide Dawa, and a French climber, Yves Bouchon.