Jim Holloway
Encyclopedia
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Jim Holloway an American
, was one of the first of a new generation of boulderers
for whom the sport was a lifestyle rather than a recreation. He began bouldering in the early 1970s in Boulder, Colorado
, and in 1973 established his first notable route, Just Right (so named because it fit his very tall frame). In 1975 he put up Trice (aka: AHR - Another Holloway Route) – at today's grade of V11 or V12
, exceptionally difficult for the 1970s.
John Sherman
's V-System
didn't come into existence for another fifteen years. In an effort to rate his routes Jim devised a personal variant on the old Gill B-System
(which had only two or three levels of difficulty, depending upon one's interpretation of it). For Holloway, difficulty fell into three categories: JHE (Jim Holloway easy), JHM (Jim Holloway medium), and JHH (Jim Holloway hard).
Holloway was one of the first boulderers to devote more than a few hours to creating a particular route. In the mid 1970s he began visiting Horsetooth Reservoir
in Fort Collins, Colorado, where John Gill
and his friend Rich Borgman had established a Dakota sandstone
bouldering area. Gill's problems there, having been fashioned in a matter of minutes or hours, were far easier than the standards Jim was setting, clearly demonstrating the change in bouldering philosophy that was taking place. As an example, Holloway worked on creating a line directly up Gill's Left Eliminator, which had been done from the side. Calling his project Meathook, he worked the problem for twenty days, during 1974 and 1975, before finally getting up. A challenging undercling on the fingertips was a key obstacle, and Jim used an artificial contrivance in his home – a simulator – to train for the move. Fifteen years later Wolfgang Gullich
would use his campus boards in a similar way to train for Action Directe
. Meathook was perhaps V12 - for Jim, JHH - whereas most of the problems at Horsetooth were in the V3 to V7 range.
In 1977, Holloway climbed Slapshot, on Dinosaur Mountain near Boulder. This challenge may very well be unrepeated as of 2006.
Jim's bouldering companions during the 1970s included Jim Michaels, Bob Williams & John Gill - from whom he learned dynamic techniques - Pat Ament
, Chris Jones, and Scott Blunk. Holloway stopped bouldering about 1980, and became involved in bicycle racing
.
In 2007 the spell was finally broken: Thirty-two years after its first ascent, Trice was finally repeated. On the 15th of November 2007 Carlo Traversi and Jamie Emerson made the 2nd and 3rd ascend of 'Trice' giving it the grade of V12 (or B2+ on the Gill-scale). The problem was further climbed twice (by James Pearson and Daniel Woods) in December.
Jim Holloway an American
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
, was one of the first of a new generation of boulderers
Bouldering
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...
for whom the sport was a lifestyle rather than a recreation. He began bouldering in the early 1970s in Boulder, Colorado
Colorado
Colorado is a U.S. state that encompasses much of the Rocky Mountains as well as the northeastern portion of the Colorado Plateau and the western edge of the Great Plains...
, and in 1973 established his first notable route, Just Right (so named because it fit his very tall frame). In 1975 he put up Trice (aka: AHR - Another Holloway Route) – at today's grade of V11 or V12
Grade (bouldering)
In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades , Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District...
, exceptionally difficult for the 1970s.
John Sherman
John Sherman (climber)
John Sherman , nicknamed Verm is an American climber and a pioneering boulderer. He is also a writer and photographer. He is the originator of the V-scale for grading boulder problems....
's V-System
Grade (bouldering)
In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades , Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District...
didn't come into existence for another fifteen years. In an effort to rate his routes Jim devised a personal variant on the old Gill B-System
Grade (bouldering)
In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades , Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District...
(which had only two or three levels of difficulty, depending upon one's interpretation of it). For Holloway, difficulty fell into three categories: JHE (Jim Holloway easy), JHM (Jim Holloway medium), and JHH (Jim Holloway hard).
Holloway was one of the first boulderers to devote more than a few hours to creating a particular route. In the mid 1970s he began visiting Horsetooth Reservoir
Horsetooth Reservoir
Horsetooth Reservoir is a large reservoir in southern Larimer County, Colorado just west of the city of Fort Collins, Colorado. The reservoir sits in the foothills above the town on the western side of the Dakota Hogback, which contains the reservoir along its eastern side...
in Fort Collins, Colorado, where John Gill
John Gill (climber)
John Gill is an American mathematician who has achieved recognition for his rock-climbing. He is considered the Father of Modern Bouldering by many climbers.-Early life and professional career:...
and his friend Rich Borgman had established a Dakota sandstone
Sandstone
Sandstone is a sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized minerals or rock grains.Most sandstone is composed of quartz and/or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the Earth's crust. Like sand, sandstone may be any colour, but the most common colours are tan, brown, yellow,...
bouldering area. Gill's problems there, having been fashioned in a matter of minutes or hours, were far easier than the standards Jim was setting, clearly demonstrating the change in bouldering philosophy that was taking place. As an example, Holloway worked on creating a line directly up Gill's Left Eliminator, which had been done from the side. Calling his project Meathook, he worked the problem for twenty days, during 1974 and 1975, before finally getting up. A challenging undercling on the fingertips was a key obstacle, and Jim used an artificial contrivance in his home – a simulator – to train for the move. Fifteen years later Wolfgang Gullich
Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich , was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.He first started climbing on the Sandstone-rocks of the 'Südpfalz'...
would use his campus boards in a similar way to train for Action Directe
Action Directe
Action Directe is French for direct action. It may refer to:* Action directe , the 1970s and 1980s French urban guerrilla group* Action Directe , the rock climb...
. Meathook was perhaps V12 - for Jim, JHH - whereas most of the problems at Horsetooth were in the V3 to V7 range.
In 1977, Holloway climbed Slapshot, on Dinosaur Mountain near Boulder. This challenge may very well be unrepeated as of 2006.
Jim's bouldering companions during the 1970s included Jim Michaels, Bob Williams & John Gill - from whom he learned dynamic techniques - Pat Ament
Pat Ament
Pat Ament is an American rock climber, musician, and artist who lives in Fruita, Colorado. Noted for first ascents in the 1960s and 1970s, he is the author of many articles and books....
, Chris Jones, and Scott Blunk. Holloway stopped bouldering about 1980, and became involved in bicycle racing
Bicycle racing
Bicycle racing is a competition sport in which various types of bicycles are used. There are several categories of bicycle racing including road bicycle racing, cyclo-cross, mountain bike racing, track cycling, BMX, bike trials, and cycle speedway. Bicycle racing is recognised as an Olympic sport...
.
In 2007 the spell was finally broken: Thirty-two years after its first ascent, Trice was finally repeated. On the 15th of November 2007 Carlo Traversi and Jamie Emerson made the 2nd and 3rd ascend of 'Trice' giving it the grade of V12 (or B2+ on the Gill-scale). The problem was further climbed twice (by James Pearson and Daniel Woods) in December.