Francys Arsentiev
Encyclopedia
Francys Arsentiev became the first woman from the United States to reach the summit of Mount Everest
without the aid of bottled oxygen, on May 22, 1998.
, and she also received schooling in the United States. Arsentiev attended Stephens College
before ultimately graduating from the University of Louisville
. She then received a Master's degree
from the International School of Business Management in Phoenix. Arsentiev worked as an accountant in Telluride, Colorado during the 1980's.
In 1992 she married Sergei Arsentiev. Together, they climbed many Russian peaks, including the first ascent of Peak 5800m, which they named Peak Goodwill, as well as Denali via the West Buttress. Arsentiev became the first American woman to ski
down Elbrus, and she summitted its east and west peaks. By this time, she developed an interest in fulfilling a lifelong dream of becoming the first American woman to summit Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen.
In May 1998, Francys and Sergei Arsentiev arrived at base camp, Mount Everest. On May 17th, they ascended from Advance Base Camp to the North Col
, and the following day they reached 7700m (25,262ft) as 21 other climbers reached the summit of Everest from the North. On May 19, they climbed to 8200 meters (Camp 6). Sergei reported by radio that they were in good shape and were going to start their summit attempt on May 20th at 1:00am. On May 20th, after spending the night at Camp 6, they started their summit attempt but turned around at the First Step when their headlamps
failed. On May 21st, they again stayed at Camp 6, after ascending only 50-100 meters before turning around. After these two aborted attempts on the summit, they began their final push on May 22. Due to the absence of oxygen supplementation at such high altitude, the two moved slowly and summitted dangerously late in the day. As a result, they were forced to spend the night in the hostile environment high upon the mountain. During the course of the evening, the two became separated. Sergei made his way down to camp the following morning, only to find that his wife had not yet arrived. Realizing she had to be somewhere dangerously high upon the mountain, he set off to find her, carrying oxygen and medicine
.
Details of what happened next are sketchy, but the most plausible accounts suggest that on the morning of the 23rd, Francys Arsentiev was encountered by an Uzbek
team who were climbing the final few hundred meters to the summit. She appeared to be in a half-conscious state, affected by oxygen deprivation and frostbite
. Unable to move on her own, they attended to her with oxygen and carried her down as far as they could, until, depleted of their own oxygen, they became too fatigued to continue the effort. As the Uzbek climbers made their way down to camp that evening, they encountered Sergei Arsentiev on his way back up to her. This is the last time he was seen alive.
On the morning of the 24th, Ian Woodall
(UK) and Cathy O'Dowd
(South Africa), and several more Uzbeks encountered Francys Arsentiev while on their way to the summit. She was found where she had been left the evening before. Sergei Arsentiev's ice axe and rope were identified nearby, but he was nowhere to be found. Both Woodall and O'Dowd called off their own attempt to reach the summit and tried to help her for more than an hour, but because of her poor condition, the perilous location and freezing weather, they were forced to abandon her and descend to camp. She expired as they found her, lying on her side, still clipped onto the guide rope. She died aged forty, with one son.
The mysterious disappearance of her husband was solved the following year when a member (Jake Norton) of the 1999 "Mallory and Irvine" expedition discovered his body lower on the mountain face, apparently having sustained a fatal fall
during an attempt to rescue his wife.
Ian Woodall initiated and led an expedition in 2007, "The Tao of Everest", with the purpose of returning to the mountain to bury the bodies of Francys Arsentiev and an Indian climber nicknamed "Green Boots
", both of which were plainly visible from the nearby climbing route. Bad weather delayed the attempt, but on May 23, 2007, Woodall was able to locate, and after a brief ritual, drop Arsentiev's body to a lower location on the face, removing her from view.
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
without the aid of bottled oxygen, on May 22, 1998.
Biography
Francys Yarbro Distefano-Arsentiev was born Francys Yarbro, on January 18th 1958, in Honolulu, Hawaii, to John Yarbro and his wife Marina Garrett. At age six, her father took her to the Colorado Mountains. Growing up, she attended school at The American School in SwitzerlandThe American School In Switzerland
The American School In Switzerland is a private school that receives elementary, middle, and high school students from many different nations and provides them with a Western-based education. Located in Montagnola, a small town above Lugano, Ticino, Switzerland, it has a current student body of...
, and she also received schooling in the United States. Arsentiev attended Stephens College
Stephens College
Stephens College is a women's college located in Columbia, Missouri. It is the second oldest female educational establishment that is still a women's college in the United States. It was founded on August 24, 1833 as the Columbia Female Academy. In 1856, David H. Hickman turned it into a college,...
before ultimately graduating from the University of Louisville
University of Louisville
The University of Louisville is a public university in Louisville, Kentucky. When founded in 1798, it was the first city-owned public university in the United States and one of the first universities chartered west of the Allegheny Mountains. The university is mandated by the Kentucky General...
. She then received a Master's degree
Master's degree
A master's is an academic degree granted to individuals who have undergone study demonstrating a mastery or high-order overview of a specific field of study or area of professional practice...
from the International School of Business Management in Phoenix. Arsentiev worked as an accountant in Telluride, Colorado during the 1980's.
In 1992 she married Sergei Arsentiev. Together, they climbed many Russian peaks, including the first ascent of Peak 5800m, which they named Peak Goodwill, as well as Denali via the West Buttress. Arsentiev became the first American woman to ski
Skiing
Skiing is a recreational activity using skis as equipment for traveling over snow. Skis are used in conjunction with boots that connect to the ski with use of a binding....
down Elbrus, and she summitted its east and west peaks. By this time, she developed an interest in fulfilling a lifelong dream of becoming the first American woman to summit Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen.
In May 1998, Francys and Sergei Arsentiev arrived at base camp, Mount Everest. On May 17th, they ascended from Advance Base Camp to the North Col
North Col
The North Col refers to a sharp-edged pass or col carved by glaciers connecting Mount Everest and Changtse in Tibet. It forms the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier....
, and the following day they reached 7700m (25,262ft) as 21 other climbers reached the summit of Everest from the North. On May 19, they climbed to 8200 meters (Camp 6). Sergei reported by radio that they were in good shape and were going to start their summit attempt on May 20th at 1:00am. On May 20th, after spending the night at Camp 6, they started their summit attempt but turned around at the First Step when their headlamps
Headlamp (outdoor)
A headlamp is a light source affixed to the head for outdoor activities at night or in dark conditions such as caving, orienteering, hiking, backpacking, camping, mountaineering or mountain biking...
failed. On May 21st, they again stayed at Camp 6, after ascending only 50-100 meters before turning around. After these two aborted attempts on the summit, they began their final push on May 22. Due to the absence of oxygen supplementation at such high altitude, the two moved slowly and summitted dangerously late in the day. As a result, they were forced to spend the night in the hostile environment high upon the mountain. During the course of the evening, the two became separated. Sergei made his way down to camp the following morning, only to find that his wife had not yet arrived. Realizing she had to be somewhere dangerously high upon the mountain, he set off to find her, carrying oxygen and medicine
Medicine
Medicine is the science and art of healing. It encompasses a variety of health care practices evolved to maintain and restore health by the prevention and treatment of illness....
.
Details of what happened next are sketchy, but the most plausible accounts suggest that on the morning of the 23rd, Francys Arsentiev was encountered by an Uzbek
Uzbek
Uzbek and Uzbekistani are adjectives referring to the state of Uzbekistan. As a noun, Uzbek may also refer to:* Uzbeks, an ethnic group* Uzbeg Khan, the Khan of the Golden Horde of the Mongol Empire* Uzbek cuisine* Uzbek language- See also :...
team who were climbing the final few hundred meters to the summit. She appeared to be in a half-conscious state, affected by oxygen deprivation and frostbite
Frostbite
Frostbite is the medical condition where localized damage is caused to skin and other tissues due to extreme cold. Frostbite is most likely to happen in body parts farthest from the heart and those with large exposed areas...
. Unable to move on her own, they attended to her with oxygen and carried her down as far as they could, until, depleted of their own oxygen, they became too fatigued to continue the effort. As the Uzbek climbers made their way down to camp that evening, they encountered Sergei Arsentiev on his way back up to her. This is the last time he was seen alive.
On the morning of the 24th, Ian Woodall
Ian Woodall
Ian Woodall is a British mountain climber who has climbed Mount Everest several times.In 1996 Woodall was the leader of the controversial first South African Mount Everest expedition, during which one member of the party died...
(UK) and Cathy O'Dowd
Cathy O'Dowd
Cathy O'Dowd is a South African rock climber, mountaineer, author and motivational speaker, famous for being the first woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest from both south and north sides ....
(South Africa), and several more Uzbeks encountered Francys Arsentiev while on their way to the summit. She was found where she had been left the evening before. Sergei Arsentiev's ice axe and rope were identified nearby, but he was nowhere to be found. Both Woodall and O'Dowd called off their own attempt to reach the summit and tried to help her for more than an hour, but because of her poor condition, the perilous location and freezing weather, they were forced to abandon her and descend to camp. She expired as they found her, lying on her side, still clipped onto the guide rope. She died aged forty, with one son.
The mysterious disappearance of her husband was solved the following year when a member (Jake Norton) of the 1999 "Mallory and Irvine" expedition discovered his body lower on the mountain face, apparently having sustained a fatal fall
during an attempt to rescue his wife.
Ian Woodall initiated and led an expedition in 2007, "The Tao of Everest", with the purpose of returning to the mountain to bury the bodies of Francys Arsentiev and an Indian climber nicknamed "Green Boots
Green Boots
In Everest climbing parlance, Green Boots is the name given to the corpse of Indian climber Tsewang Paljor on the Northeast ridge route of Mount Everest. There is little doubt that the body is that of Paljor, who was wearing green Koflach boots on the day he and two others apparently summited...
", both of which were plainly visible from the nearby climbing route. Bad weather delayed the attempt, but on May 23, 2007, Woodall was able to locate, and after a brief ritual, drop Arsentiev's body to a lower location on the face, removing her from view.