Edging
Encyclopedia
Edging is a climbing technique
involving the placement of the very edge (either inside or outside edge) of the climbing shoe
on a sharp hold. Edging is the most simple and most common approach for standing on holds but, even so, requires some practice to obtain the very best footing. On smaller holds, it becomes something of an exercise in precision.
An alternative to edging is toeing-in, where the toes are placed on the hold. This requires strong toes but might be preferable on very small holds, particularly in small pockets.
Another alternative is smearing
, where the ball of the foot is, literally, smeared onto the surface of the rock in absence of any definite holds. Here one relies upon friction created at the sole of the shoe.
Climbing technique
A climbing technique is any type or combination of body posture, movement, or hold used in climbing. In this article, several different climbing techniques are listed, and briefly described.-Bridging, or stemming:...
involving the placement of the very edge (either inside or outside edge) of the climbing shoe
Climbing shoe
A climbing shoe is a specialized type of footwear designed for rock climbing. Typical climbing shoes have a close fit, little if any padding, and a smooth, sticky rubber sole with an extended rubber rand...
on a sharp hold. Edging is the most simple and most common approach for standing on holds but, even so, requires some practice to obtain the very best footing. On smaller holds, it becomes something of an exercise in precision.
An alternative to edging is toeing-in, where the toes are placed on the hold. This requires strong toes but might be preferable on very small holds, particularly in small pockets.
Another alternative is smearing
Smearing
Smearing in rock climbing is the practice of using as much as possible of the surface of the sole of a shoe against a flat rock face. This is done to maximize the amount of friction between the rock and the shoe. Smearing can be one of the most insecure and technical techniques used in climbing,...
, where the ball of the foot is, literally, smeared onto the surface of the rock in absence of any definite holds. Here one relies upon friction created at the sole of the shoe.