Charmeuse
Encyclopedia
Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric
woven with a satin weave
, where the warp
threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft
) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish - lustrous and reflective - whereas the back has a dull finish. It can be made of silk or a synthetic lookalike such as polyester. Silk charmeuse is more expensive and delicate but is softer and a better insulator. Polyester charmeuse is cheaper and can often withstand machine washing, but it does not breathe as well as silk. Charmeuse differs from plain satin
in that charmeuse is softer and lighter in weight.
The luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited to lingerie, flowing evening gowns, and drapey blouses. Bridal gowns sometime use charmeuse, however, the fabric does not hold a shape well, so it is not used for full, flared skirts; the charmeuse tends to cling and hang against the body. It is best suited to a more fluid, slinky bias
cut, and is too fragile and flimsy for more tailored clothing. It is not used in menswear, with the exception of underwear such as charmeuse boxer shorts.
It is one of the more challenging fabrics to sew, and not recommended for beginners. The fabric is extremely slippery and difficult to control through the presser foot of a sewing machine. Seams have a tendency to pucker and pull; a smaller stitch length and finer thread can minimize this, though the experience of the sewer will impact the finished result as well. Charmeuse also tends to leave holes
and marks where the fabric was pinned, making the manipulation of pattern pieces more challenging. For greater ease of sewing, a sizing product can be sprayed on before cutting and washed out after the garment is completed.
Charmeuse tears easily, especially when wet, so dry-cleaning is recommended.
Fabric
A fabric is a textile material, short for "textile fabric".Fabric may also refer to:*Fabric , the spatial and geometric configuration of elements within a rock*Fabric , a nightclub in London, England...
woven with a satin weave
Satin weave
Satin weave is one of the three important textile weaves. The satin weave is distinguished by its lustrous, or 'silky', appearance...
, where the warp
Warp (weaving)
In weaving cloth, the warp is the set of lengthwise yarns that are held in tension on a frame or loom. The yarn that is inserted over-and-under the warp threads is called the weft, woof, or filler. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end or end. Warp means "that which is thrown...
threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft
Weft
In weaving, weft or woof is the yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create cloth. In North America, it is sometimes referred to as the "fill" or the "filling yarn"....
) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish - lustrous and reflective - whereas the back has a dull finish. It can be made of silk or a synthetic lookalike such as polyester. Silk charmeuse is more expensive and delicate but is softer and a better insulator. Polyester charmeuse is cheaper and can often withstand machine washing, but it does not breathe as well as silk. Charmeuse differs from plain satin
Satin
Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. It is a warp-dominated weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacings in a fabric. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibres such as silk, nylon, or polyester, the corresponding fabric is...
in that charmeuse is softer and lighter in weight.
The luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited to lingerie, flowing evening gowns, and drapey blouses. Bridal gowns sometime use charmeuse, however, the fabric does not hold a shape well, so it is not used for full, flared skirts; the charmeuse tends to cling and hang against the body. It is best suited to a more fluid, slinky bias
Bias (textile)
The bias or cross-grain direction of a piece of woven fabric, usually referred to simply as "the bias" or "the cross-grain", is at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases, perpendicular to each other...
cut, and is too fragile and flimsy for more tailored clothing. It is not used in menswear, with the exception of underwear such as charmeuse boxer shorts.
It is one of the more challenging fabrics to sew, and not recommended for beginners. The fabric is extremely slippery and difficult to control through the presser foot of a sewing machine. Seams have a tendency to pucker and pull; a smaller stitch length and finer thread can minimize this, though the experience of the sewer will impact the finished result as well. Charmeuse also tends to leave holes
and marks where the fabric was pinned, making the manipulation of pattern pieces more challenging. For greater ease of sewing, a sizing product can be sprayed on before cutting and washed out after the garment is completed.
Charmeuse tears easily, especially when wet, so dry-cleaning is recommended.