Allen Steck
Encyclopedia
Allen Steck is an American mountaineer
and rock climber, and a native of Oakland, California.
(12886 feet (3,928 m)). He served in the U.S. Navy during World War II. Discharged in 1946, he joined the Rock Climbing Section of the Sierra Club
, and began climbing on Berkeley crags such as Indian Rock
and Cragmont. He enrolled at the University of California, Berkeley
, majoring in German. His early climbing influences included Dick Leonard
and David Brower.
He began climbing in Yosemite Valley
in 1947, initially learning the use of piton
s by trial and error. He said that at that time, there "was no body of people who could help you learn these things." He has been a Life Member of the Sierra Club
since 1947.
In 1949, he climbed in the Alps
, completing the first ascent by an American of the Comici route on the north face of the Cima Grande
in the Dolomites
together with his Austrian friend Karl Lugmayer.
From June 30 to July 4, 1950, with John Salathé
, he completed the first ascent of Steck-Salathé Route
up the 1600 feet (487.7 m) north face of Sentinel Rock
in Yosemite Valley. Steck described the climb in an article originally published in the Sierra Club Bulletin in 1951: "The ascent of this wall was probably the toughest that either of us had ever made, or ever hoped to make again. Though John has 51 years to my 24, the climb seemed to have little effect on his endurance; only toward the end of the third day, did he seem to show signs of wear, but then both of us were ready to acknowledge the pleasures of simple back country hiking. It was just too damned hot".
In 1952, he went to work at a Berkeley ski, mountaineering and backpacking store called The Ski Hut, and later worked for their equipment manufacturing division Trailwise. He specialized in sleeping bag design.
Steck participated in the first attempt on Makalu
in Nepal
which was made by an American
team led by William Siri
in the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of members of the Sierra Club
and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. This was the first major American mountaineering expedition to the Himalaya. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms, as well as food shortages and lack of bottled oxygen.
On June 22, 1963, he completed the first ascent of the 1000 feet (304.8 m) Southeast Face
of Clyde Minaret
(12281 feet (3,743 m)) with Dick Long, John Evans and Chuck Wilts.
On August 6, 1965, he completed the first ascent of Hummingbird Ridge on Mount Logan
(19850 feet (6,050 m)) in the St. Elias Range
located on the border between the Yukon and Alaska, a climb that took 35 days. Mount Logan is the second-highest peak in North America. He was accompanied to the summit by Dick Long, John Evans, Jim Wilson, Frank Coale and Paul Bacon.
In 1969, he co-founded Mountain Travel with Leo LeBon. The company is now known as Mountain Travel Sobek.
In July, 1970, Steck and Doug Robinson completed the first ascent of the "Doors of Perception" route on North Palisade
rated III 5.8, described as "the most striking feature on the northeast face of the mountain" and "one of the most aesthetic lines in the Sierra."
Along with Steve Roper
, he has been the long-time editor of the mountaineering journal Ascent, which was originally published by the Sierra Club and later by the American Alpine Club
. Steck and Roper also wrote the book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
, first published in 1979.
, he was the first recipient of the Sierra Club's Francis P. Farquhar Mountaineering Award
in 1970.
In 1995, he won the American Alpine Club's Literary Award for co-authoring Fifty Classic Climbs of North America with Steve Roper.
He celebrated his 70th birthday by reascending the Steck-Salathé Route. His nickname is "the Silver Fox."
Allen celebrated his 75th birthday by meeting up with a large group of friends at Red Rocks, climbing classics like the Crimson Crysalis, Lotta Balls and the chimneys of Epinephrine. Allen also gave a slide show at Desert Rock Sports of the first ascent of the Hummingbird Ridge of Mt. Logan - slides that had been in storage since the early 1960s.
At 83, Steck continues gym climbing twice a week, public speaking, and occasional visits to the high peaks.
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...
and rock climber, and a native of Oakland, California.
Mountaineering
Steck started climbing with his brother George. In 1940 when Allen was 16, the two completed the first ascent of the northwest ridge of Mount MaclureMount Maclure
Mount Maclure is the nearest neighbor to Mount Lyell, the highest point in Yosemite National Park. Mount Maclure is located at the southeast end of the Cathedral Range, about northwest of Lyell. It is named for William Maclure, was a pioneer in American geology, who produced one of the earliest...
(12886 feet (3,928 m)). He served in the U.S. Navy during World War II. Discharged in 1946, he joined the Rock Climbing Section of the Sierra Club
Sierra Club
The Sierra Club is the oldest, largest, and most influential grassroots environmental organization in the United States. It was founded on May 28, 1892, in San Francisco, California, by the conservationist and preservationist John Muir, who became its first president...
, and began climbing on Berkeley crags such as Indian Rock
Indian Rock Park
Indian Rock Park is a public park in the city of Berkeley, California, on the slope of the Berkeley Hills. It is located in the northeast part of the city, about one block north of the Arlington/Marin Circle, and straddles Indian Rock Avenue. The central feature of the park is a large rock...
and Cragmont. He enrolled at the University of California, Berkeley
University of California, Berkeley
The University of California, Berkeley , is a teaching and research university established in 1868 and located in Berkeley, California, USA...
, majoring in German. His early climbing influences included Dick Leonard
Richard M. Leonard
Richard Manning Leonard was an American rock climber, environmentalist and attorney. He served as president of the Sierra Club and the Save the Redwoods League, and was active in the Wilderness Society and the American Alpine Club...
and David Brower.
He began climbing in Yosemite Valley
Yosemite Valley
Yosemite Valley is a glacial valley in Yosemite National Park in the western Sierra Nevada mountains of California, carved out by the Merced River. The valley is about long and up to a mile deep, surrounded by high granite summits such as Half Dome and El Capitan, and densely forested with pines...
in 1947, initially learning the use of piton
Piton
In climbing, a piton is a metal spike that is driven into a crack or seam in the rock with a hammer, and which acts as an anchor to protect the climber against the consequences of a fall, or to assist progress in aid climbing...
s by trial and error. He said that at that time, there "was no body of people who could help you learn these things." He has been a Life Member of the Sierra Club
Sierra Club
The Sierra Club is the oldest, largest, and most influential grassroots environmental organization in the United States. It was founded on May 28, 1892, in San Francisco, California, by the conservationist and preservationist John Muir, who became its first president...
since 1947.
In 1949, he climbed in the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
, completing the first ascent by an American of the Comici route on the north face of the Cima Grande
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
The Tre Cime di Lavaredo are three distinctive battlement-like peaks, in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy. They are probably one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps...
in the Dolomites
Dolomites
The Dolomites are a mountain range located in north-eastern Italy. It is a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extends from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley...
together with his Austrian friend Karl Lugmayer.
John Salathe
John Salathé was a pioneering rock climber, blacksmith and the inventor of the modern piton....
, he completed the first ascent of Steck-Salathé Route
Steck-Salathé Route (Sentinel Rock)
The Steck-Salathé Route is a technical climbing route up Sentinel Rock. The route was first climbed June 30 - July 4, 1950, by Allen Steck and John Salathé, up the north face of Sentinel Rock in Yosemite Valley....
up the 1600 feet (487.7 m) north face of Sentinel Rock
Sentinel Rock
For the granite dome near Glacier Point, Yosemite National Park, see Sentinel Dome.Sentinel Rock is a granitic peak in Yosemite National Park, California, United States. It towers over Yosemite Valley, opposite from Yosemite Falls....
in Yosemite Valley. Steck described the climb in an article originally published in the Sierra Club Bulletin in 1951: "The ascent of this wall was probably the toughest that either of us had ever made, or ever hoped to make again. Though John has 51 years to my 24, the climb seemed to have little effect on his endurance; only toward the end of the third day, did he seem to show signs of wear, but then both of us were ready to acknowledge the pleasures of simple back country hiking. It was just too damned hot".
In 1952, he went to work at a Berkeley ski, mountaineering and backpacking store called The Ski Hut, and later worked for their equipment manufacturing division Trailwise. He specialized in sleeping bag design.
Steck participated in the first attempt on Makalu
Makalu
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China...
in Nepal
Nepal
Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India...
which was made by an American
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
team led by William Siri
William Siri
William E. Siri was an American biophysicist, mountaineer and environmentalist. He was born in Philadelphia, PA and attended school in Audubon, NJ.-Education and scientific career:...
in the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of members of the Sierra Club
Sierra Club
The Sierra Club is the oldest, largest, and most influential grassroots environmental organization in the United States. It was founded on May 28, 1892, in San Francisco, California, by the conservationist and preservationist John Muir, who became its first president...
and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. This was the first major American mountaineering expedition to the Himalaya. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms, as well as food shortages and lack of bottled oxygen.
On June 22, 1963, he completed the first ascent of the 1000 feet (304.8 m) Southeast Face
Southeast Face (Clyde Minaret)
The Southeast Face of Clyde Minaret is a technical rock climbing route on Clyde Minaret near Mammoth Lakes, CA and is featured in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.- External links :**...
of Clyde Minaret
Minarets (California)
The Minarets are a series of jagged peaks located in the Ritter Range, a sub-range of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the state of California. They are easily viewed from Minaret Summit, which is accessible by auto. The peaks bear a certain resemblance to the minarets of Islamic mosques...
(12281 feet (3,743 m)) with Dick Long, John Evans and Chuck Wilts.
On August 6, 1965, he completed the first ascent of Hummingbird Ridge on Mount Logan
Mount Logan
Mount Logan is the highest mountain in Canada and the second-highest peak in North America, after Mount McKinley . The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada . Mount Logan is located within Kluane National Park and...
(19850 feet (6,050 m)) in the St. Elias Range
Saint Elias Mountains
The Saint Elias Mountains are a subgroup of the Pacific Coast Ranges, located in southeastern Alaska in the United States, southwestern Yukon and the very far northwestern part of British Columbia in Canada. The range spans Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve in the USA and Kluane...
located on the border between the Yukon and Alaska, a climb that took 35 days. Mount Logan is the second-highest peak in North America. He was accompanied to the summit by Dick Long, John Evans, Jim Wilson, Frank Coale and Paul Bacon.
In 1969, he co-founded Mountain Travel with Leo LeBon. The company is now known as Mountain Travel Sobek.
In July, 1970, Steck and Doug Robinson completed the first ascent of the "Doors of Perception" route on North Palisade
North Palisade
North Palisade is the third highest mountain in the Sierra Nevada range of California. It is the highest peak of the Palisades group of peaks in the central part of the range. It sports a small glacier and several highly prized rock climbing routes on its northeast side.- History :North Palisade...
rated III 5.8, described as "the most striking feature on the northeast face of the mountain" and "one of the most aesthetic lines in the Sierra."
Along with Steve Roper
Steve Roper
Steve Roper is a noted climber and historian of the Sierra Nevada in the United States. He along with Allen Steck are the founding editors of the Sierra Club journal Ascent.Roper is the winner of the Sierra Club's Francis P...
, he has been the long-time editor of the mountaineering journal Ascent, which was originally published by the Sierra Club and later by the American Alpine Club
American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club, or AAC, was founded in 1902 by Charles Ernest Fay, and is the leading national organization in the United States devoted to mountaineering, climbing, and the multitude of issues facing climbers...
. Steck and Roper also wrote the book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
Fifty Classic Climbs Of North America is a climbing guidebook and history written by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. It is considered a definitive piece of climbing literature, known to many climbers as simply "The Book", and has served as an inspiration for more recent climbing books, such as Mark...
, first published in 1979.
Legacy
Jointly with Norman ClydeNorman Clyde
Norman Clyde was a mountaineer, mountain guide, freelance writer, nature photographer, and self trained naturalist. He is well-known for achieving over 130 first ascents, many in California's Sierra Nevada and Montana's Glacier National Park...
, he was the first recipient of the Sierra Club's Francis P. Farquhar Mountaineering Award
Francis P. Farquhar Mountaineering Award
The Francis P. Farquhar Mountaineering Award is given by the Sierra Club, and is named after club leader, historian and mountaineer Francis P. Farquhar. According to the Sierra Club, this award "honors an individual's contribution to mountaineering and enhancement of the Club's prestige in this...
in 1970.
In 1995, he won the American Alpine Club's Literary Award for co-authoring Fifty Classic Climbs of North America with Steve Roper.
He celebrated his 70th birthday by reascending the Steck-Salathé Route. His nickname is "the Silver Fox."
Allen celebrated his 75th birthday by meeting up with a large group of friends at Red Rocks, climbing classics like the Crimson Crysalis, Lotta Balls and the chimneys of Epinephrine. Allen also gave a slide show at Desert Rock Sports of the first ascent of the Hummingbird Ridge of Mt. Logan - slides that had been in storage since the early 1960s.
At 83, Steck continues gym climbing twice a week, public speaking, and occasional visits to the high peaks.