Aiguille Dibona
Encyclopedia
The Aiguille Dibona, formerly called (Aiguille du) Pain de Sucre du Soreiller) 3130 m (10,269 ft) is a mountain in the French Alps, in the Massif des Écrins
Massif des Écrins
The mountains of the Massif des Écrins form the core of the Écrins National Park in France.-Mountains:*Barre des Écrins 4102 m*La Meije 3983 m*Ailefroide 3954 m*Mont Pelvoux 3946 m*Pic Sans Nom 3913 m*Pic Gaspard 3883 m*Le Râteau 3809 m...

, notable for its "astonishing triangular granite spear."

Because of its singular shape, the ease of access, and the exceptional quality of its granite the mountain is very popular among climbers. The many routes on the mountain are among the most popular in the Écrins. Formerly called Pain de Sucre du Soreiller, it was renamed for Angelo Dibona
Angelo Dibona
Angelo Dibona was an Italian mountaineer. He is remembered as one of the great pioneers of climbing in the Dolomites and is responsible for many first ascents throughout the Alps. The Aiguille Dibona in France and the Campanile Dibona in Italy are named after him.-Biography:Dibona was born in...

, the Dolomites
Dolomites
The Dolomites are a mountain range located in north-eastern Italy. It is a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extends from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley...

 guide and mountaineer, who made the first ascent on 27 June 1913 with Guido Mayer. At the foot of the mountain is the refuge du Soreiller, accessible in 3h30m from the village of Étages.

Climbing routes

The main climbing routes are:
  • Normal and historical route: PD (peu difficile), or a more challenging route, IV (UIAA grade); eight pitches in all
  • On the south face are the most popular routes:
    • Voie des Savoyards
    • Voie Madier
    • Visite obligatoire
    • Voie Boell-Stoefer
  • The east and west faces are less frequented
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