Acherkogel
Encyclopedia
The Acherkogel is a mountain in the Austrian Alps with a high summit. It is the northernmost three-thousander
in the state of Tyrol. It dominates the village of Oetz
in the lower valley of the River Ötz, where high rock faces rise to the northwest and southwest. To the west, a sharp ridge leads down to the Achplatte and Habicher Wand , another ridge strikes northeast to the high Maningkogel. Another sharp ridge heads southeast to the high Wechnerkogel. In the main, the Acherkogel has the character of a rocky peak, only to the north and east are there small snowfields.
It was first climbed on 24 August 1881 by Ludwig Purtscheller
from the southeast and south ridge over a route that has not been used since. His climbing partner, the chamois hunter Franz Schnaiter from Kühtai, stayed behind on the south ridge when the climbing became very exposed.
Less frequented routes are:
Three-thousander
Three-thousanders are mountains with a height of between 3,000, but less than 4,000 metres above sea level. Similar terms are commonly used for mountains of other height brackets e. g...
in the state of Tyrol. It dominates the village of Oetz
Oetz
Oetz is a municipality in the Imst district of Austria and is located 11.70 km southeast of Imst at the lower course of the Ötztaler Ache. The village has several parts and is a popular area for rafting and tourism. Settlement of the area around Oetz already began 2000 years ago but the village was...
in the lower valley of the River Ötz, where high rock faces rise to the northwest and southwest. To the west, a sharp ridge leads down to the Achplatte and Habicher Wand , another ridge strikes northeast to the high Maningkogel. Another sharp ridge heads southeast to the high Wechnerkogel. In the main, the Acherkogel has the character of a rocky peak, only to the north and east are there small snowfields.
It was first climbed on 24 August 1881 by Ludwig Purtscheller
Ludwig Purtscheller
Ludwig Purtscheller was an Austrian mountaineer and teacher.In the late 19th century he was known as the best mountaineer in the Alps, where he had climbed over 1,700 mountains...
from the southeast and south ridge over a route that has not been used since. His climbing partner, the chamois hunter Franz Schnaiter from Kühtai, stayed behind on the south ridge when the climbing became very exposed.
Routes to the summit
- The north face (UIAA IIGrade (climbing)In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
) was first traversed by Otto Melzer in 1893 and is considered the normal route today. The Bielefelder Hütte is the usual base camp. - The northeast ridge (UIAA IIIGrade (climbing)In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
, K. Holzhammer, 1924) leads from the ridge between the Acherkogel and Maningkogel to the summit and is the most attractive climb. This route is normally tackled by crossing the Maningkogel coming from the Mittertal. The start point for this route is usually the Kühtai or Mittergrathütte. - The southern ridge (UIAA IIGrade (climbing)In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
, F. Hörtnagl/H. Schmotzer, 1899) is usually started at the Dortmunder Hütte. The route used by the first climbers to conquer the peak runs nearby, but is no longer passable. - The southwest face (UIAA IIGrade (climbing)In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
, F. Gstrein/F. Lantschner/M. Pfaundler 1891) used to be the normal route, but is now rarely used.
Less frequented routes are:
- the southeast face (UIAA V-Grade (climbing)In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
, P. Schillfahrt/N. Raich, 1975), - the western ridge (UIAA IIIGrade (climbing)In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
, F. Lantschner, 1893) und - the northwest face to the western ridge (F. Lantschner, 1921)