Abalakov thread
Encyclopedia
The Abalakov thread, or V-Thread, is an ice protection device named after its inventor, Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. The Abalakov thread is a common method of protecting oneself while ice climbing because it is easy to create, doesn't require the sacrifice of expensive gear, and can be very safe when used properly. An Abalakov thread is often used in multi-pitch
ice climbing
routes. Because of its safety and convenience, the Abalakov thread is considered one of the most significant innovations in ice climbing. It significantly expanded the scope of possible routes and abseiling
safety.
An Abalakov thread can be constructed using an ice screw
, 1–2 meters of appropriate strength cord, and hook-like Abalakov threading device. Two holes are drilled in the ice, which interconnect at the ends to form a v-like channel in the ice. The cord is then threaded through this hole, and tied with a knot such as a fisherman's knot
. This loop is then used to hang the abseiling rope. Abalakov thread can only be constructed in solid ice. The holes need to be drilled at the correct angle (about 45-50 degrees compared to ice surface), and care must be taken that they interconnect. The surfaces of the holes need to have sufficient distance (about 17–20 cm) between them. If the ice is not strong enough, it is possible to use two Abalakovs to balance the force, although if this is needed, an alternate route is strongly recommended.
Though the Abalakov thread is considered to be as strong as any ice screw placement, a backup ice screw is frequently used for the first abseil. This allows for increased safety if mistakes were made in the creation of the Abalakov thread, and allows the strength of the thread to be observed.
Multi-pitch climbing
Multi-pitch climbing is the ascent of climbing routes with one or more stops at a belay station. Each section of actual climbing between stops at the belay stations is called a pitch. The leader ascends the pitch, placing gear and stopping to anchor themselves to the belay station.The reason for...
ice climbing
Ice climbing
Ice climbing, as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water. For the purposes of...
routes. Because of its safety and convenience, the Abalakov thread is considered one of the most significant innovations in ice climbing. It significantly expanded the scope of possible routes and abseiling
Abseiling
Abseiling , rappelling in American English, is the controlled descent down a rock face using a rope; climbers use this technique when a cliff or slope is too steep and/or dangerous to descend without protection.- Slang terms :...
safety.
An Abalakov thread can be constructed using an ice screw
Ice screw
An ice screw is a threaded tubular screw used as a running belay or anchor by climbers on steep ice surface such as steep waterfall ice or alpine ice during ice climbing or crevasse rescue, to hold the climber in the event of a fall, and at belays as anchor points. Ice screws are made by...
, 1–2 meters of appropriate strength cord, and hook-like Abalakov threading device. Two holes are drilled in the ice, which interconnect at the ends to form a v-like channel in the ice. The cord is then threaded through this hole, and tied with a knot such as a fisherman's knot
Fisherman's knot
The fisherman's knot is a bend with a symmetrical structure consisting of two overhand knots, each tied around the standing part of the other...
. This loop is then used to hang the abseiling rope. Abalakov thread can only be constructed in solid ice. The holes need to be drilled at the correct angle (about 45-50 degrees compared to ice surface), and care must be taken that they interconnect. The surfaces of the holes need to have sufficient distance (about 17–20 cm) between them. If the ice is not strong enough, it is possible to use two Abalakovs to balance the force, although if this is needed, an alternate route is strongly recommended.
Though the Abalakov thread is considered to be as strong as any ice screw placement, a backup ice screw is frequently used for the first abseil. This allows for increased safety if mistakes were made in the creation of the Abalakov thread, and allows the strength of the thread to be observed.