Nicolas Ghesquière
Encyclopedia
Nicolas Ghesquière is a fashion designer and is currently creative director for the house of Balenciaga
owned by the Gucci Group (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute). He grew up in Loudun
, Vienne.
He was the son of a Francophone Belgian golf-course owner and manager in the 9,000 inhabitants Poitevine
town of Loudun
and a French mother who enjoyed fashion. From a young age Ghesquière enjoyed and practised sports (horse riding, fencing
and swimming) and many of his collections use that inspiration, most notably his scuba minidresses and most recently his equestrian inspired Fall/Winter 2006 Ready-To-Wear collection.
Raised in the small town of Loudun
in western France (in the Poitevin
-speaking part), Ghesquière announced at the age of 12 that he wanted to be a designer, though he now admits this was partly from an adolescent desire to do something different from his parents and to alleviate country boredom. So that's by the age of 12 that Nicolas was dreamily sketching dress designs in his school books, making dresses out of his mother's curtains and making earrings out of his grandmother's chandelier crystals.
He diligently did internships during his school holidays. At 14, he got an internship with French designer agnès b for which he was paid in clothes. His next apprenticeship was with Corinne Cobson, afterwards he decided that fashion was too hard work and came home to finish his schooling.
After completing his studies, Nicolas worked from 1990–1992 as an assistant to designer Jean-Paul Gaultier
. He then worked at Pôles, designing their knit wear line followed by a series of inauspicious assignments with different companies including the Italian house of Callaghan.
Through his contacts with Marie-Amélie Sauve and Nathalie Marrec, of Balenciaga, Ghesquière eventually landed a job doing the licensing for Balenciaga and designing for the Asian market. It was from there that he was plucked to be the new designer for the house, which had limited success since the 1970s (the label's founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga
, died in 1972). Ghesquière held, as he then described it, “ what many would call the worst position in fashion”: designing suits and funeral clothes under a Balenciaga licence for Japan.
was fired following a highly unsuccessful show. At that time, Balenciaga was owned by Groupe Jacques Bogart and its heads realized his talent when he designed a small collection for one of their Japanese licences. He is known for his sense of "silhouette," pairing highwaisted skinny pants with a voluminous "blouson," or a tightly cut wool jumpsuit with billowing sleeves.
His work soon turned Balenciaga into a critically acclaimed fashion house. An aspect of the designer's devotion to the house's legacy is his respect for Cristóbal Balenciaga's original design concepts. However, even though the Balenciaga archives are stored in Ghesquière's atelier, he can gain entry to the locked room only by special appointment with an off-site custodian.
The Gucci Group (PPR) bought Balenciaga in 2001. Ghesquière who wanted to stay and expand Balenciaga could only be bought through the house. “It is a happy relationship,” Ghesquière says. “It has worked because they wanted me to explain what I wanted to do with Balenciaga, not the other way around.” Ghesquière’s collections have had a considerable commercial impact, particularly through his influence on other designers.
. Most recently he was featured in TIMEs 100 Most Influential People of 2005. He was described as "fashion's most sought-after and influential figure" by American Vogue
.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga is a fashion house founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga, a Basque designer, born in the Basque Country, Spain. He had a reputation as a couturier of uncompromising standards and was referred to as "the master of us all" by Christian Dior. His bubble skirts and odd, feminine, yet ultra-modern...
owned by the Gucci Group (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute). He grew up in Loudun
Loudun
Loudun is a commune in the Vienne department in the Poitou-Charentes region in western France.It is located south of the town of Chinon and 25 km to the east of the town Thouars...
, Vienne.
He was the son of a Francophone Belgian golf-course owner and manager in the 9,000 inhabitants Poitevine
Poitou-Charentes
Poitou-Charentes is an administrative region in central western France comprising four departments: Charente, Charente-Maritime, Deux-Sèvres and Vienne. The regional capital is Poitiers.-Politics:The regional council is composed of 56 members...
town of Loudun
Loudun
Loudun is a commune in the Vienne department in the Poitou-Charentes region in western France.It is located south of the town of Chinon and 25 km to the east of the town Thouars...
and a French mother who enjoyed fashion. From a young age Ghesquière enjoyed and practised sports (horse riding, fencing
Fencing
Fencing, which is also known as modern fencing to distinguish it from historical fencing, is a family of combat sports using bladed weapons.Fencing is one of four sports which have been featured at every one of the modern Olympic Games...
and swimming) and many of his collections use that inspiration, most notably his scuba minidresses and most recently his equestrian inspired Fall/Winter 2006 Ready-To-Wear collection.
Raised in the small town of Loudun
Loudun
Loudun is a commune in the Vienne department in the Poitou-Charentes region in western France.It is located south of the town of Chinon and 25 km to the east of the town Thouars...
in western France (in the Poitevin
Poitevin
Poitevin may refer to:* From or related to Poitou or to the town of Poitiers * Poitevin , the language spoken in the Poitou* Poitevin horse, a breed of draught horse from Poitou, France* Poitevin , a breed of dog...
-speaking part), Ghesquière announced at the age of 12 that he wanted to be a designer, though he now admits this was partly from an adolescent desire to do something different from his parents and to alleviate country boredom. So that's by the age of 12 that Nicolas was dreamily sketching dress designs in his school books, making dresses out of his mother's curtains and making earrings out of his grandmother's chandelier crystals.
He diligently did internships during his school holidays. At 14, he got an internship with French designer agnès b for which he was paid in clothes. His next apprenticeship was with Corinne Cobson, afterwards he decided that fashion was too hard work and came home to finish his schooling.
After completing his studies, Nicolas worked from 1990–1992 as an assistant to designer Jean-Paul Gaultier
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier , born 24 April 1952 in Arcueil, Val-de-Marne, France) is a French haute couture fashion designer. Gaultier was the creative director of Hermès from 2003 to 2010. In the past, he has hosted the television series Eurotrash....
. He then worked at Pôles, designing their knit wear line followed by a series of inauspicious assignments with different companies including the Italian house of Callaghan.
Through his contacts with Marie-Amélie Sauve and Nathalie Marrec, of Balenciaga, Ghesquière eventually landed a job doing the licensing for Balenciaga and designing for the Asian market. It was from there that he was plucked to be the new designer for the house, which had limited success since the 1970s (the label's founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga
Cristóbal Balenciaga
Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre was a Spanish Basque fashion designer and the founder of the Balenciaga fashion house....
, died in 1972). Ghesquière held, as he then described it, “ what many would call the worst position in fashion”: designing suits and funeral clothes under a Balenciaga licence for Japan.
Balenciaga
In 1997, at the young age of 25, Ghesquière was the surprise choice to head Balenciaga. Promoted to creative director of Balenciaga after his Belgian predecessor Josephus ThimisterJosephus Thimister
Josephus Melchior Thimister is a Belgian interior decorator and noted fashion designer who launched his eponymous fashion label, THIMISTER in 1997. In 2001, the editor-in-chief of Vogue USA Anna Wintour named Josephus Thimister as one of the twenty-first best fashion designers...
was fired following a highly unsuccessful show. At that time, Balenciaga was owned by Groupe Jacques Bogart and its heads realized his talent when he designed a small collection for one of their Japanese licences. He is known for his sense of "silhouette," pairing highwaisted skinny pants with a voluminous "blouson," or a tightly cut wool jumpsuit with billowing sleeves.
His work soon turned Balenciaga into a critically acclaimed fashion house. An aspect of the designer's devotion to the house's legacy is his respect for Cristóbal Balenciaga's original design concepts. However, even though the Balenciaga archives are stored in Ghesquière's atelier, he can gain entry to the locked room only by special appointment with an off-site custodian.
The Gucci Group (PPR) bought Balenciaga in 2001. Ghesquière who wanted to stay and expand Balenciaga could only be bought through the house. “It is a happy relationship,” Ghesquière says. “It has worked because they wanted me to explain what I wanted to do with Balenciaga, not the other way around.” Ghesquière’s collections have had a considerable commercial impact, particularly through his influence on other designers.
Recognition
In October 2000, Ghesquière was named avant-garde designer of the year at the VHI/Vogue Fashion Awards and a year later, he was named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDACouncil of Fashion Designers of America
The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. is a not-for-profit trade association of over 350 of America’s foremost fashion and accessory designers. As of 2009, Diane von Fürstenberg is the group's President and Steven Kolb is the Executive Director...
. Most recently he was featured in TIMEs 100 Most Influential People of 2005. He was described as "fashion's most sought-after and influential figure" by American Vogue
Vogue (magazine)
Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine that is published monthly in 18 national and one regional edition by Condé Nast.-History:In 1892 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States. When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly began...
.