Lobster à la Riseholme
Encyclopedia
Lobster à la Riseholme was a famed (ultimately infamous) gastronomic dish served by Lucia (Mrs Emmeline Lucas) in two of the Mapp and Lucia
novels of E F Benson
(1867-1940).
The recipe was never revealed, but, in the manner of Mrs Beeton
, began with the words "Take two hen lobsters ..." It took its name from the village of Riseholme
, where Lucia lived before moving to Tilling
, on the Sussex coast, although the dish did not appear in either of the two novels set while Lucia was at Riseholme.
Lucia first serves Lobster à la Riseholme in Tilling to her friend George ("Georgie") Pillson in Mapp and Lucia (1931) to cheer him up after he discovers that his housemaid Foljambe intends to marry. It then appears at a luncheon party a few weeks later. Lucia resists attempts to reveal the recipe, despite the custom in Tilling of sharing favourite recipes. Lucia's cook refuses Elizabeth Mapp's bribe of half a crown
(two shillings and sixpence or 12½ new pence
) to provide a copy. Elizabeth attempts to create the recipe - "Lobster à la Riseholme à la Mapp", as Benson called it - at a party of her own but it is not a success.
In Gerald Savory
's adaptation for television (London Weekend Television 1984) Lucia's guests vie with each other to guess the additional ingredients - shrimps, cream, tomato, cheese and Marsala
are all suggested - but this does not happen in the book.
On Boxing Day
1930, Elizabeth enters Lucia's kitchen at Grebe, on the outskirts of Tilling, and is able, in Lucia's absence, to transcribe the recipe. Lucia discovers her in the act, but before excuses could be given, the sea wall breaks and Lucia and Elizabeth are swept away on the flood, clinging to the kitchen table. They languish for some weeks on an Italian fishing vessel on the Gallagher Bank, eventually returning to Tilling, where Elizabeth discovers that the recipe has survived the ordeal.
Elizabeth subsequently serves Lobster à la Riseholme - correctly - at her wedding breakfast, at which point the reason for her being in Lucia's kitchen becomes clear.
The dish is served again in Lucia's Progress (1935) at Lucia's housewarming party following her move to Elizabeth's former residence, Mallards.
's pastiche, Lucia in Wartime (1985), set early in the Second World War. Having mastered "Woolton pie
" (an officially-sanctioned vegetable dish named after the wartime Food Minister, Lord Woolton. Georgie's triumphant preparation of Lobster à la Riseholme, using a number of substitute ingredients, leads to his expertise being commended to the Ministry of Food. As a result he is conscripted for a BBC
radio broadcast during which, among other things, he provides a recipe for corned beef
à la Riseholme. This follows speculation in Tilling as to whether he would reveal the secret of the celebrated lobster dish.
Later in the novel, Holt uses the term, "humble pie
à la Riseholme" with reference to a likely need for humility.
.
Mapp and Lucia
Mapp and Lucia is a collective name for a series of novels by E. F. Benson, and is also the name of a television series based on those novels.-The novels:...
novels of E F Benson
Edward Frederic Benson
Edward Frederic Benson was an English novelist, biographer, memoirist and short story writer, known professionally as E.F. Benson. His friends called him Fred.-Life:E.F...
(1867-1940).
The recipe was never revealed, but, in the manner of Mrs Beeton
Mrs Beeton
Isabella Mary Beeton , universally known as Mrs Beeton, was the English author of Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management, and is one of the most famous cookery writers.-Background:...
, began with the words "Take two hen lobsters ..." It took its name from the village of Riseholme
Riseholme
Riseholme is a fictional Elizabethan village in the Cotswolds in the “Lucia” novels of Edward Frederic Benson . It is thought to have been based on Broadway, Worcestershire.- Lucia and Riseholme :...
, where Lucia lived before moving to Tilling
Tilling (Sussex)
Tilling is a fictional coastal town, based on Rye, East Sussex, in the Mapp and Lucia novels of Edward Frederic Benson .- Town in the novels of E F Benson :...
, on the Sussex coast, although the dish did not appear in either of the two novels set while Lucia was at Riseholme.
Lobster à la Riseholme in the Benson novels
Half crown (British coin)
The half crown was a denomination of British money worth half of a crown, equivalent to two and a half shillings , or one-eighth of a pound. The half crown was first issued in 1549, in the reign of Edward VI...
(two shillings and sixpence or 12½ new pence
British One Penny coin
The British decimal one penny coin, produced by the Royal Mint, was issued on 15 February 1971, the day the British currency was decimalised. In practice, it had been available from banks in bags of £1 for some weeks previously...
) to provide a copy. Elizabeth attempts to create the recipe - "Lobster à la Riseholme à la Mapp", as Benson called it - at a party of her own but it is not a success.
In Gerald Savory
Gerald Savory
Gerald Savory was an English playwright and screenwriter specialising in comedies.The son of actress Grace Lane , he was educated at Bradfield College and worked as a stockbroker's clerk before turning to the stage , first as an actor then a writer.His first work for movies was writing dialogue for...
's adaptation for television (London Weekend Television 1984) Lucia's guests vie with each other to guess the additional ingredients - shrimps, cream, tomato, cheese and Marsala
Marsala wine
Marsala is a wine produced in the region surrounding the Italian city of Marsala in Sicily. Marsala wine first received Denominazione di Origine Controllata status in 1969....
are all suggested - but this does not happen in the book.
On Boxing Day
Boxing Day
Boxing Day is a bank or public holiday that occurs on 26 December, or the first or second weekday after Christmas Day, depending on national or regional laws. It is observed in Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom and some other Commonwealth nations. In Ireland, it is recognized as...
1930, Elizabeth enters Lucia's kitchen at Grebe, on the outskirts of Tilling, and is able, in Lucia's absence, to transcribe the recipe. Lucia discovers her in the act, but before excuses could be given, the sea wall breaks and Lucia and Elizabeth are swept away on the flood, clinging to the kitchen table. They languish for some weeks on an Italian fishing vessel on the Gallagher Bank, eventually returning to Tilling, where Elizabeth discovers that the recipe has survived the ordeal.
Elizabeth subsequently serves Lobster à la Riseholme - correctly - at her wedding breakfast, at which point the reason for her being in Lucia's kitchen becomes clear.
The dish is served again in Lucia's Progress (1935) at Lucia's housewarming party following her move to Elizabeth's former residence, Mallards.
Second World War: Corned beef
à la Riseholme Lobster à la Riseholme re-appears in Tom HoltTom Holt
Tom Holt is a British novelist.He was born in London, the son of novelist Hazel Holt, and was educated at Westminster School, Wadham College, Oxford, and The College of Law, London....
's pastiche, Lucia in Wartime (1985), set early in the Second World War. Having mastered "Woolton pie
Woolton pie
Woolton pie, at first known as Lord Woolton pie, was an adaptable dish of vegetables, created at the Savoy Hotel in London by its then Maitre Chef de Cuisine, Francis Latry...
" (an officially-sanctioned vegetable dish named after the wartime Food Minister, Lord Woolton. Georgie's triumphant preparation of Lobster à la Riseholme, using a number of substitute ingredients, leads to his expertise being commended to the Ministry of Food. As a result he is conscripted for a BBC
BBC
The British Broadcasting Corporation is a British public service broadcaster. Its headquarters is at Broadcasting House in the City of Westminster, London. It is the largest broadcaster in the world, with about 23,000 staff...
radio broadcast during which, among other things, he provides a recipe for corned beef
Corned beef
Corned beef is a type of salt-cured beef products present in many beef-eating cultures. The English term is used interchangeably in modernity to refer to three distinct types of cured beef:...
à la Riseholme. This follows speculation in Tilling as to whether he would reveal the secret of the celebrated lobster dish.
Later in the novel, Holt uses the term, "humble pie
Humble pie
To eat humble pie, in common usage, is to apologize and face humiliation for a serious error. Humble pie, or umble pie, is also a term for a variety of pastries, originally based on medieval meat tripe pies.- Etymology :...
à la Riseholme" with reference to a likely need for humility.
Recipes for the dish
Various attempts have been made to create a Lobster à la Riseholme recipe, including one devised by TV's "domestic goddess" Nigella LawsonNigella Lawson
Nigella Lucy Lawson is an English food writer, journalist and broadcaster. Lawson is the daughter of Nigel Lawson, the former Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Vanessa Salmon, whose family owned the J. Lyons and Co. empire...
.